Calling Any Platers Of 1857 10 Cent Type V #35

I've been working on reconstructing plate 2 (type V, Scott #35) of the 1857 10 cent stamp. My only real resources are Neinken's book and looking at high resolution scans from auction sites. I currently have a handful of positions confidently plated.

I am looking for anyone interested in sharing high resolution scans of #35 stamps, and anyone also trying to plate #35's. I hope to eventual have a photo database that shows all the positions. Thanks!

Luke W

Luke, I can't help with hi-res scans but I do work with the Ten-Cent 1855-59 stamps. I'll be sure to shoot any info your way that I think might be of interest.

Dudley, that would be great! Any help is appreciated.

You need this...

That is amazing! Where they all the same strip?

I don't think so.

I don't know how to plate this issue. I scanned at 2400 dpi

I have a few more I can scan for you if this is helpful?

another:

FWIW, here's a top-row position (Relief A):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Scott-35...AOSwDk5ULrym

Sinclair, I do indeed need that imprint set
I just purchased my first imprint stamp (61L--the bottom most position). I also have a few centerlines.

rgstamp, thanks for the images. Your two show some of the difficulty with this issue. There was a variety in paper quality, and many (like your top image) have extensive "bruising" or excess ink that obscures plating marks. I'm finding that one has to be quite selective in purchasing stamps that have enough quality in paper and inking (is that a real term?) and non-obscuring cancels to locate identifying marks. I'll try post a few that I have so far.

Interesting,

When I scanned the two stamps in, I used same scanner, same resolution, technique etc,

When I posted them I also saw the difference in sharpness..the bottom one obviously sharper . I thought it was my scanner/computer. I can appreciate the need for sharpness to identify plate marks. Now I can appreciate how difficult it is to plate these. Good luck.

It's due to the top stamp being cropped right up to the perfs.

Here are a sampling of the ones I'm confident about. One problem I'm running into is that a stamp will show one plating mark from Neinken's diagrams, but not others--and without other reference copies to compare to, I don't know how to determine what plating marks should be the strongest (i.e. the last to fade). Losing plating marks might not even be a predictable, even process with this issue. I just don't know. Neinken notes some marks as "faint", but that is about the only indication given. Also, there is only one DT (I believe) and most marks are on or outside the periphery of the design. So well centered copies seem to (generally) be harder to plate so far. Definitely challenging, but I'm a sucker for such things. I've circled the identifying plating marks.

Relief B (note incomplete right lower shell): 15L/16L/17L. Faint scratch lines on 15L (trust me, they are there); blur to left of design and dot in right X on 16L; faint dot in star on 17L.


Relief C (note long, strong green line from edge to edge of design top): 30R. Blur in star.


Relief C: 61R. Blurry dash through the left shell.


Relief F, bottom row: 98L. Horizontal gash through the left shell and a dot (indicates Relief F).

Luke, check this one out:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/35-10-Cent-...AOSwhQhY2Vfc

Here is a strip for you. I have no plating info on it. THe Swiss cert doesn't appear to have any plating info on it.

In addition to the Neinken book on #35,there is a 1936 dated volume on the stamp by Ashbrook with loads of info by one of the great old platers.
Tom Bane