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Danish Classics, Show Them To Me.

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Pillar Of The Community
United States
926 Posts
Posted 01/15/2017   7:53 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add spain_1850 to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
I would love an English guide to the program. I've downloaded it, but can't make heads or tails of it. I would love to get into plating the bi-colored issues, I have literally hundreds of them that I have been accumulating.
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Valued Member
Serbia (Srbija)
208 Posts
Posted 01/16/2017   08:59 am  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Makanudo to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
I do not need it right now, but I hope I shall need it very soon and I would love to have it.
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Valued Member
423 Posts
Posted 01/17/2017   02:26 am  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Sorsh to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
i'm pressed for time at the moment, but here are some of the most noticable ovalflaws on the 3Ýre... the most wellknown one "the missing A" I don't have in my possession at the moment since I don't really collect 3Ýre except for the exchanged cliches from print 5 and the entire print 7 and 8.

the flaws are so apparent that they don't need a description

plating bicolored becomes fun when you find the same flaw in two obviously different print... at least to me.

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Valued Member
423 Posts
Posted 01/17/2017   02:52 am  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Sorsh to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply

here is one of the most apparent frameflaws the "106 flaw" exist in all values except 4, 5, 8 and 20Ýre and most DVI values. both normal frame and inverter frame.

in total 30 different prints with this flaw.





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Valued Member
423 Posts
Posted 01/17/2017   02:58 am  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Sorsh to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply

and the pearl flaw of course.
exist in both large pearlflaw and the not as obvious small pearlflaw.
a very popular area. and found in many values both danish and DVI issues.




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Pillar Of The Community
United States
5774 Posts
Posted 01/20/2017   11:28 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Cjd to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
So...on the 8-ore pair, the large-pearl flaw is on the right stamp? Yes?

Did you show example of the small-pearl flaw?

(Great stuff...I just need spoonfeeding.)
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Bedrock Of The Community
Learn More...
Australia
28783 Posts
Posted 01/20/2017   11:54 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add rod222 to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
I agree with Collin.
What is a "Pearl Flaw"?
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Valued Member
423 Posts
Posted 01/21/2017   03:45 am  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Sorsh to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
i marked out the things to look for.

and I will take foto's of some minor flaws also later.

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Valued Member
423 Posts
Posted 01/21/2017   03:51 am  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Sorsh to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
also, if you're serious about bicolored, these books are good to have, and they are in english.

http://www.bruun-rasmussen.dk/searc...&mode=detail
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Pillar Of The Community
United States
5774 Posts
Posted 01/21/2017   10:13 am  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Cjd to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks for the markups.
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Pillar Of The Community
United States
926 Posts
Posted 01/21/2017   10:53 am  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add spain_1850 to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
I bought these on eBay a while back. They appear to be plated already, and they look like the correspond to the Tofdata utility. I tried to look them up and some I can find and some I cannot.
I am still not sure what some of the numbers refer to.
The first stamp (upper left), as an example, refers to position 9 of print 17, but what do the numbers "OF 1.42" mean? Also, when I look this position up on Tofdata, I cannot see the flaws listed.




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Valued Member
423 Posts
Posted 01/22/2017   03:21 am  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Sorsh to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
@ Spain_1850 - first the reason you can't find the stamp you enlarged is because it's incorrect.

the OF refers to ovalflaw which is the same in tofdata.. the FM refreds to framematrice which in tofdata is RM "rammematrice" (danish) ramme=frame.

so the enlarged stamp is listed as print 17 pos 9 with ovalflaw 1.42... and that is correct with the position, but the ovalflaw is wrong, it's ovalflaw 1.93 and I have my doubts of it even being print 17, I would think it is print 16. due to the fact that is has a "smear" "spies" of brown in the upper right corner.. oval color over the frame... these are called "spies" in danish at least.
and those are more or less consistent in a print.
but colors can cheat on the screen, and a full sheet of print 17 does not exist so I can't compare.

The stamp also have a RM5D which isn't noted or FM5D if using the same lingo as the person plating these used.

i assume you can make the "ō" character on your keyboard? since it's requirer to use tofdata... otherwise the ascii code for it is ALT+155.

12 and 16Ýre are the easiest to plate, the stamps you have are frametype 5 and are more difficult than frametype 4 though.. the ones I posted with the big dent in, are frametype 4.

if you in Tofdata press F8 then press R then press 4 and enter... you'll get all the frametype 4 frame matrice types... press arrow down there are some 25 or so of them.
the pics I posted with the dents are all RM4D, remember to turn 180degrees when looking at inverted frame stamps.

to excel in plating you need to learn these so you can recoqnize them.. makes plating alot easier.

if you do the same and press 5 instead you get the frame types for main group 5.

so FM5D stands for FM = FrameMatrice 5 = maingroup 5 D=Matrice type D
OF 1.42 stands for ovalflaw , and 1 stand for Ovalseries 1 and the 42 is the ovalflaw identification..

an ovalseries last till new ovals are made and used.. so for 16Ýres ovalseries 1 is used from print 1 to print 17 and new ovals are made and inserted in print 18 and used till the end.

the more stamps are printed the more series as wear on the plates is of course heavier.

8Ýre has 11 oval series, and from 20Ýre and up only 1 was needed - make sense right.
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Pillar Of The Community
United States
926 Posts
Posted 01/23/2017   4:36 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add spain_1850 to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Sorsh - Thank you for the great information. It is clear I have much to learn. Is there a good procedure of steps to take when attempting to plate these?

For instance, since I don't have any specialized knowledge of plating, how would I go about the task if I started with a random batch of unidentified stamps?

So far, I would:
a) Separate the skilling issues from the Ýre issues.
b) Separate the Ýre issues by perforation type.
c) Separate each perforation type by denomination.
d) Separate each denomination by normal and inverted frame.

And that's about as far a I've ever needed to go since the Scott catalog doesn't go into further detail, and Facit doesn't go deep enough.

Are any of these steps necessary for plating? Is there a better way?

Might the next step be to identify frame types?

I just ask these questions because my personality likes order of operations and logic.

BTW, the information in your post was truly helpful and gives me a little bit clearer picture. I also found online the English version of the installation instructions for the utility, which also had some useful information. It just didn't make sense when I originally downloaded it, now it is starting to.
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Valued Member
Egypt
294 Posts
Posted 01/24/2017   02:44 am  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add agmasd56 to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply


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Valued Member
423 Posts
Posted 01/24/2017   11:42 am  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Sorsh to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
@Spain

your personality will work wonders for plating - you need to make a system for this otherwise you'll get lost in your own collection.

i would suggest some changes to your A to D

a) Separate the skilling issues from the Ýre issues. (and don't take out skilling until you're more experienced)
- sort 4 and 8Ýre and leave them in a box, you should learn plating on 12 and 16Ýre or you're likely to give up before you have some success.
b) Separate the OTHER Ýre issues by perforation type.
- leave ALL perf 12 3/4 in a box and don't bring them out until you've run out of all other material, or don't expect you're able to plate 1 out of 100. then if you do start, then start with 25Ýre as they have the most ovalflaws
c) Separate each perforation type by denomination.
- start with 12-16Ýre, leave 5Ýre as the last. (you probably don't have many anyway)
d) Separate each denomination by normal and inverted frame.

then it's time to learn the Maingroups 1 to 5, here you should focus only on learning maingroup 4. (accessed by pressing F8, then R, then 4)

i would start with 16Ýre
then when you get to 12Ýre you should devide them by the early prints (the violet faint ovals) as these can be really hard to see ovalflaws in. and focus on maingroup 4.

both 12 and 16Ýre are doable in maingroup 5 as well as many ovalflaws exist, the early prints are harder, and rarer

print 1 and 2 of 16Ýre are so rare that Lasse nielsen has felt the need to mention this in his book, I myself have only maybe 50-60 of these. and catalogue value of these prints are well above $100 each.

i will post a picture of how you should go about plating once you notice a flaw somewhere.

i'm so glad that some find these stamps as interesting as I do :)
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