10¢ Red Cloud (Scott 2175)

Here are my images for 10¢ Red Cloud

Normal (scanner)
SW (camera)
LW (camera)

Top Row
2175 10¢ Red Cloud lake, lg blk tagging, dull gum
2175a 10¢ Red Cloud lake, overall tag, dull gum
2175c 10¢ Red Cloud lake, solid tagging, dull gum

Bottom row
2175d 10¢ Red Cloud lake, mottled tagging, shiny gum
2175e 10¢ Red Cloud carmine, mottled tagging, shiny gum

The 2175e seems to look redder under an Ott Light but would not bet the farm. The tagging / gum help isolate.

Nice work!

Slightly OT question - what exactly do you use or how do you folks photograph tagged stamps like those above? I can't get my head wrapped around how this is done. TIA

Yup, I'm with GrandpaJohn. I'm not seeing it. Can someone put it in english, please?

Moyock13: The first image is from a scanner. The second & third images are photos taken by a digital camera. The second was taken while the stamps were placed under a shortwave UV lamp. The third was taken while the stamps were under longwave UV. Hope this helps.
Added: When placed under shortwave UV, the tagging on the stamps fluoresce with a shade of green (some yellowish, some bluish). The purple area on the first stamp represents that portion of the stamp that is not tagged ... hence it is block-tagged. The second stamp has no purplish area ... it is overall tagged (tagging added over the stamp design after stamp was printed). The 3rd stamp has "solid" tagging, even though it appears somewhat mottled similar to the 4th & 5th stamps. But the yellow green tagging along with the dull gum (as specified by the OP) identifies it as 2175c (rather than d or e). Both solid & mottled tagging result from the use of prephosphored paper. The stamp design is, in effect, printed over the tagging.
Why?: The OP is demonstrating how to identify the different varieties & details of the Red Cloud issue. Short UV is used to help determine the variety (2175 thru 2175e) by identifying the tagging technique used. Long UV can help determine paper type as well as stamp faults (e.g., creases, tears, repairs, etc.).
I commend the OP on his photography. Having tried (with little success) to photograph stamps under UV myself, I can attest to the fact that it is not easy. My determination & persistence were not adequate to the task.

JLLebbert, it does. Thanks. But why? What was the reason?

This is an early camera setup with Nikon DLSR with 90mm telephoto lens with macro (close up capability) on a copy stand using two dual wave lamps. These are AC lamps so do not deal with batteries.

It took some experimentation on the exposure (enough depth of field for sharpness margin, how much to under expose) and get the color close.



Now, the camera and lamps are higher. I am trying to design a better fixture to hold the lamps.

Quite a project. It sort of blows our little 600 dpi scanners away!

Moyok13, what is the reason for what?

Peter

Petert4522, I was wanting to know what tagging was and why. But I found a link on the forum, https://www.stampcommunity.org/dict...stamps_t.asp

Thanks.

Thanks angore for the response & accompanying pic, I had a feeling the answer would be beyond my limited capabilities, and I was right. I was hoping maybe someone had discovered a simple way to do this<sigh>. :)

These tools are critical to identify the Scott list varieties and some are not so obvious so this is my reference for them. Sometimes overall tagging and solid tagging can be hard to determine. The ones that are often white or bluish are printed on hi-brite paper - another variable.

The challenge in 6 months I will not remember it all so saves time getting out reference samples to identify stamps.

This is quite an accomplishment, and it would be great to see more examples like this. The only time I've photographed stamps to show tagging under UV light was pretty amateurish in comparison, holding the UV lamp in one hand, and the camera in the other. And it was just two stamps, a tagged version and an untagged version. And with my (limited) experience using a handheld UV light I don't think I could light up several stamps the way angore has done.

Is that TWO UV lights beneath the camera, and if so, what model? With the toggle switch and metal casing they sure look more substantial ("industrial"} than the plastic UV light I have.

Very ambitious (and expensive?) project!

Basil

Yes, I use two lamps. They are older Raytech models I purchased off ebay. I have always been in photography including doing copy work so the real variable for me is the type of light source. The two lamps is more for even illumination than total light.

With my full frame DSLR camera, I can crank up the ISO to 3200 (do not get the grainy images you find in smaller sensor cameras) so I can get an acceptable exposure time/lens opening, etc. to get sharp images. I am still experimenting with exposure. I am trying to build a history and lock down the settings.