Stamp Community Family of Web Sites
Thousands of stamps, consistently graded, competitively priced and hundreds of in-depth blog posts to read
Stamp Community Forum
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

Welcome Guest! Need help? Got a question? Inherit some stamps?
Our stamp forum is completely free! Register Now!

Kangaroo Stamps And Die 1 Vs. Die 2 For Weak Printings

To participate in the forum you must log in or register.
Author Previous Topic Topic Next Topic  
Pillar Of The Community

1347 Posts
Posted 06/25/2019   07:46 am  Show Profile Bookmark this topic Add stamperix to your friends list Get a Link to this Message

the die I vs. II of the Kangaroo stamps is a (not) broken line at the lower left area. It's easy to detect for stamps which have a good printing and inking. But there are many Kangaroo stamps where this line is broken again and again all around, like this one (just took one of the first stamps I saw in this shop which has nice scans always - thank you, FDS).

So how do you proceed in defining the die if the line has several broken steps near the die I/II area? Is it always exactly the same line (count from below) for all Kangaroo stamps, and does it have to have a certain degree, like half a mm?

Or, are there other additional things to consider whether a stamp is die I or II if the broken line area is not certain by 100% if the stamp has a weak inking?
Send note to Staff
Edited by stamperix - 06/25/2019 07:47 am

Valued Member
256 Posts
Posted 06/25/2019   08:25 am  Show Profile Check fairdinkumstamps's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add fairdinkumstamps to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply

The Die I break is in the left inner frame between the shading line that aligns with the top of the words of value and the line above that.

See this halfpenny roo for a good example

Some stamps such as the First Watermark One Shilling roo you refer to above only exist as Die II, so that makes the job easier.

Where stamps of the same watermark exist as both Die I and Die II, the Die I break is the determining factor. If the break is unclear due to a particularly poor or blotchy print then, apart from shades that might only exist for a particular die, the other means is to identify any plate varieties (flaws) or characteristics associated with the die.

The flaws are listed in specialist literature such as the BW ACSC Kangaroos catalogue.

Some stamps such as the 3d kangaroos have defining characteristics to help separate the dies - e.g. teardrop shape ball at the top of the numeral 3 on the much rarer die II 3d (in addition to lack of die I break and without die IIB characteristics).
Send note to Staff  Go to Top of Page Fair Dinkum Stamps - Specialising in stamps from early Australia and the colonies, Australian philatelic literature, catalogues, stockbooks and accessories.
Edited by fairdinkumstamps - 06/25/2019 08:30 am
Pillar Of The Community
1347 Posts
Posted 06/25/2019   12:09 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add stamperix to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Thank you very much, that was very helpful, as always.
Send note to Staff  Go to Top of Page
  Previous Topic Topic Next Topic  
To participate in the forum you must log in or register.

Go to Top of Page
Disclaimer: While a tremendous amount of effort goes into ensuring the accuracy of the information contained in this site, Stamp Community assumes no liability for errors. Copyright 2005 - 2020 Stamp Community Family - All rights reserved worldwide. Use of any images or content on this website without prior written permission of Stamp Community or the original lender is strictly prohibited.
Privacy Policy / Terms of Use    Advertise Here
Stamp Community Forum © 2007 - 2020 Stamp Community Forums
It took 0.27 seconds to lick this stamp. Powered By: Snitz Forums 2000 Version 3.4.05