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Greece 1911-24, Engraved Vs. Lithographed

 
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Posted 12/08/2019   12:59 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this topic Add EMaxim to your friends list Get a Link to this Message
I'm embarrassed to ask, but does anyone else have difficulty distinguishing Greek stamps of the engraved/recessed series of 1911-21 (Scott #198-213, Michel #158-173, Yvert #179-93) from those of the lithographed series of 1913-24 (Scott #214-31, Michel #190-207, Yvert #194a-198l)? Usually I find these two printing methods the easiest to distinguish, but not here.
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Posted 12/08/2019   3:58 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add hy-brasil to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Yes, the litho printing was well done making them hard to tell apart. You need to look at these with a magnifier. The engraved clearly has printing raised up above the paper surface while the litho is dead flat against the paper.


All you need is a 10X magnifier or less, not a microscope view as shown. The left side shows the upper left corner of an engraved 2dr lighted from the side to try to emphasize the raised printing. The right side is from the litho 2dr; note that the more ragged look of the edges of lines expected of many litho printings is evident under magnification.

As an aside, the engraved 25L is almost always misidentified in collections, too.
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Edited by hy-brasil - 12/08/2019 5:57 pm
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Posted 12/08/2019   6:33 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add EMaxim to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Yes, I have been surprised by the quality of the lithographed series. And with the engraved, I often also look at the reverse for the usual evidence of intaglio printing (inked portions appearing as recesses). But with used stamps I often don't see any. I'll use your technique with magnification of the obverse and, perhaps, side lighting as well. Thanks!
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Posted 12/11/2019   12:36 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add EMaxim to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Have done pretty well with the lepta varieties, but the drachma values are proving a lot tougher (unless of course there's some evidence of recess printing on the back). The overprinted drachma values would be a good reference, but at this point I haven't any.
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