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I was thinking about taking the stamps that Ioagoa has that match the Chase examples and putting them in place of the Chase copies and moving the Chase copies to the third position. The 1200 dpi color examples are much better quality than the Chase b/w prints. Any thoughts on that idea? |
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I like the way you have it now, with the green border designating the Chase image and keeping all the Chase illustrations as illustrations (for consistency). Don |
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Hi Jaxom100 --
On the Chase stamps -- I agree with Don -- I like how you have it set up now -- so, my preference is to keep all the Chase photographic images "as is" -- and then highlight the actual ex-Chase 1200 dpi stamp images with the green border as you have done.
On the 53R5L -- that is also my stamp -- and the GD at the top is not a "ghost dot" -- but is actually the GD from the adjoining position 43R5L above that sits very far below its BFL. The "ghost dot" at the bottom of my 53R5L is a solid match with the Chase stamp and other reference copies that I have looked at.
I am not going to speak to the differences in the compressed images again -- as it would just be a repeat of the comments I made in my post responding to your prior query about my 42R5L possibly being incorrectly plated.
Perhaps Classic Coins can weigh in with his assessment / comments about the differences in the compressed scans that you are seeing?
In any event, I am confident that my 53R5L stamp posted up to the StampSmarter database is correctly plated.
Regards // ioagoa
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Hi jaxom100, Regarding the dispute you have with the top dot position on ioagoa's 53R5L, I would first suggest that you compare the positioning of the dot at top with the position of the dot at the bottom of adjoining position 43R5L in the stampplating.com database. At the bottom of the color image of 43R5L, I can see the top frame line of 53R5L, and I'm seeing a perfect match with the GD position at the top of ioagoa's 53R5L. Even the shape of the dot is a match, which I don't think is the case with the GD of 63R5L. Regarding 73R5L possibly being a match, I attached the Stamp Smarter copy of 73R5L to the bottom of this compressed composite image to show that the spacing between the RIL and RFL is not consistent with 53R5L.  |
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Harper1249, Your pressed and compressed 52R5E image matches the 52R5E reference copies much better now.
Since I started using the compressed image technique for plating six years ago, I have always made sure that I soak and press my 3-cent imperforates when I acquire them.
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I found where I made my error. Both of these stamps are in the database for 43R5L. In error, I chose the stamp on the right for the guide dot image (in the bottom border line). I therefore looked at my chart on the 43R5L as being on the line and not below it. That is why I ruled out 53R5L. I will change my guide dot chart. Thanks.  I mean no disrespect when I question a stamp's plating. I just want to avoid mistakes in my charts like this one. So when I run across something that does not look right to me, I post here for the expert's opinion. I am not an expert at plating these. But I am putting forth my best effort on these charts. So bear with me when I have questions. PS: If anyone has images of the other stamps showing the ghost dot, I would appreciate a copy for the guide dot chart. They are: 12R5L, 32R5L, 52R5L, 53R5L, 72R5L, 73R5L. |
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Edited by jaxom100 - 12/06/2021 03:17 am |
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Stepping out of my comfort zone, not that platting the 3 cent imperfs makes me comfortable! =) So I picked up three one cent imperfs on a cover, add said that they were a mixture of Scott 7&9's. I figured what the heck, I'd like to tinker with the process of platting these guys. So starting off with not much more than a general idea, here's what I've got. Not asking for someone to plat these, I'd like a general idea of where to start. Looking at them I'm not seeing a lot of difference between them. It is unfortunate that the center stamp is so badly creased.  |
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Edited by Moyock13 - 12/06/2021 11:05 am |
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Interesting 3-cent trio, Moyock13. Any chance you could post or email a 1200-DPI image? |
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Its often good to figure out the relief first - especially if you are looking to go more in-depth. The relief will also give you a better clue as to how and where to look for potential recut top and/or bottom frame lines - which tells you whether you have a #9 (Plate 1L) or not.
These stamps are from transfer roll #1, which made plates 1E, 1L, 2 and 3.
What relief is each?
A full scan of the cover would also be nice to see, as it can provide information such as date + year of use, which can help further narrow things down in difficult cases. |
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Edited by txstamp - 12/06/2021 12:20 pm |
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Regarding recuts, the three reliefs from roll #1 are called T, A and B.
T reliefs are top row only, and are never recut at top. So you only have to look for a recut at bottom.
The bottom row stamps are never recut at bottom. Most bottom row stamps are B reliefs, with a few exceptions which are A. So if you know a stamp is bottom-row, you only have to check for a recut at top. |
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It is a folded letter dated 31 Aug 1857. I'm always a bit nervous unfolding these old letters. Nothing on the back.   |
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So the date of the letter doesn't eliminate any plates.
See page 53-54 of Neinken for the T-A-B reliefs, and compare to your stamps.
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