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My 6 Month Collection/Addiction

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Posted 01/19/2022   6:49 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Bubbachismo to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Lol I absolutely fell in. I should clarify the original lot I bought was mostly a little of everything. All the 19th century are ones I've picked up since. The many duplicates is because I have gotten so many $120-$200 lots since then and those issues seem to be thrown In all of them. 4 here 5 there. The better sellers on eBay put so many pics in the description that I would see one or two that I "needed" and would buy the whole lot. You think that's some duplication you should see how many 2 cent Washington's I have #128518; it's been wonderful and currently working on old German locals after getting a good collection of thurns and Taxis as well as wutenburg. I've gotten some very nice lots with old albums from England.. currently it's winter so a self employed co tractor has less spending money but it's amazing how much money you have when you quit drinking and cigarettes.. cheers
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Posted 01/19/2022   7:17 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add mootermutt987 to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Traded one vice for another, huh??
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Posted 01/19/2022   8:39 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Bubbachismo to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Indeed
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Posted 01/20/2022   11:33 am  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add dudley to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Bubba, can you post a scan of the One-Cent blue Franklin in the top row?
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Posted 01/20/2022   3:12 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Bubbachismo to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Any thoughts you have on it would be greatly appreciated. I thought it may be a #7 but I've spent more time buying than identifying at this point. There's so much to consider.

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Posted 01/20/2022   8:36 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Classic Coins to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Bubbachismo, That is a nice collection that looks like a lot of fun to study.

There is a lot of demand for fancy cancels on the #65s that you showed.

Can you show closeup images of the second and third stamps in the second row of your first image? mootermutt987 mentioned that these could be #10 or #10A.
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Posted 01/20/2022   9:21 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Bubbachismo to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Singles in order from the first photo






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Posted 01/20/2022   9:38 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Bubbachismo to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Here's a picture of my other 10/11s. I don't plate yet and just learning to determine what constitutes a true 10 so any I fo would go along way to my learning. It would be greatly appreciated.
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Posted 01/20/2022   10:52 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Classic Coins to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks for the new images, Bubbachismo.

The second stamp, with the sheet margin at top and a circle of wedges cancel is a Scott #10A. I plated it to position 8L5e. It has a guide dot in the upper-right corner, hanging down from the top frame line, that aided in plating it to this position.

The 3-cent imperforates were printed from 13 plates/plate states with 200 designs per sheet, for a total of 2600 different plate positions. Platers of this issue can identify which of the 2600 positions each stamp was printed from, if the stamp has enough of the impression showing.

There are online resources that show the different characteristics of each position, such as stampplating.com and Stamp Smarter, linked below:

http://stampplating.com/complete-plating

https://stampsmarter.org/features/S..._Plates.html

Scott #10A (orange brown) is valued at about 10 times #11 and #11A, which are what most of your 3-cent imperforates are.
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Posted 01/21/2022   01:23 am  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add mootermutt987 to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
In an earlier post, I suggested that maybe (from the latest set of photos) the 2nd and 3rd from the top stamps were 10's or 10A's, and it looks like Classis Coins confirmed the Top Sheet Margin copy as a 10A by plating it. The color looked good to me from the first scan, which prompted me to make that statement. The other one, though, now that there is a close-up scan may not be a 10A (10A's have recut inner lines, as both the copies in question have, but 11A's have the same property so THAT feature is not going to help differentiate between the Orange Brown and the Dull Red) To be sure, one way or the other, it should be plated and there are many here with skills better than me at that. A closer look at the 2nd one tells me that the impression is not as good as is often seen on the 10A. That is a very broad statement, with TONS of exceptions, but it has served me well, generally. Anyone care to take a crack at plating the bold blue cancelled stamp, above?
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Edited by mootermutt987 - 01/21/2022 01:24 am
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Posted 01/21/2022   4:41 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Classic Coins to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Bubbachismo, The third stamp you enlarged from the first photo, with the dark blue Cincinnati cancel that mootermutt commented on, is from sheet position 4R2, almost certainly from the late state of plate 2 (4R2L). The color in the large photo looks like a discolored/darkened #11A color rather than orange brown, as orange browns typically don't change color very easily.

Also, the frame lines on your stamp look weakened compared to the early state, likely due to the re-entry process that resulted in the late state. Re-entry of the designs from the transfer roll tended to weaken the frame lines.

This stamp is another top-row stamp, with a guide dot on the top frame line just above the UR corner of the upper label block. It also has a small dash sitting on top of the UR diamond block that is consistent with this position. It might be seen best on the stampplating.com example.

Most strikingly, this position has a very curvy left frame line. I made a compressed composite image with your stamp shown with 4R2e (#10A) and 4R2L from the Chase Smithsonian photo. Both the early and late states show the same curves.

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Posted 01/21/2022   5:39 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Bubbachismo to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Wow Classic that's awesome. I checked out the links and was overwhelmed at first glance but hearing you describe the process is a huge help. I want to try my hand at plating. I'll work on one of the others from the first group and I'll post my results so I can be corrected lol. I really appreciate the info.
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Posted 01/21/2022   6:45 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Classic Coins to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
You're very welcome, Bubbachismo.

The two stamps I plated for your had guide dots at top, which is where they appear on top-row stamps. Stamps from rows 3, 5, 7, and 9, however, have the guide dots in the lower-right corner. If you start with the ones with guide dots, you'll likely find them easier to plate than stamps without guide dots, as they appear in varied locations relative to the corner of the stamp.

The stampplating.com site has a Plating Wizard where you can filter by guide dots, triangle recuts, etc., to narrow down your candidate list.

If you have a scanner you can use to acquire images of your stamps rather than a camera, that would help immensely. I noticed some of your stamps were not laying flat when photographed, and this induces unnatural bends in the frame lines that can interfere with using the compressed-image plating technique that I showed above. I use my scanner and an image editor to compress almost every stamp I plate to 10 percent of original height to help confirm positions.

I started a topic for the 1851-57 imperforate stamps at the link below, where many others have showed their plating work and collaborated with other platers, that I invite you to check out.

http://goscf.com/t/72775

Good luck with learning plating. I look forward to seeing your progress.
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Posted 01/21/2022   7:07 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Classic Coins to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Here is another very helpful page from the U.S. Philatelic Classics Society that is helpful for narrowing down which plate a stamp was printed from. If a stamp has the distinct traits of stamps from plate 4, for example, you have already narrowed the candidate positions from 2600 to only 200.

https://www.uspcs.org/stamps-covers...2%a2-plates/

Plate 4 stamps typically have a left frame line that is faint and too close to the design near the top. They also have heavily recut lines in the upper and lower label blocks.

Your stamp from the first group with the Aug 31 cancel screams plate 4! The left frame line is faint, and it essentially disappears near the top. And you can see the heavy recut line above the AGE of POSTAGE.

If you go to the Resources/Electronic Library page on the USPCS site I linked here, you can download Carroll Chase's book on the 1851-1861 3-cent stamp for free!
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Posted 01/21/2022   7:11 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Classic Coins to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
P.S., Your Aug 31 stamp also appears to have an extra line at right.
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