Show Your US 1851-57 Imperforate Stamps

Thanks but im asking a question

Here's a scan of the same stamp, before and after being exposed to hydrogen peroxide. Look at the letter "O" for POSTAGE. It really doesn't look like, before and after. The letter look blurry. What can I do to remove this "blurry" effect? This effect is probably because of moisture.

@Captain Stamp. For your #11 (blue grid cancel) that you have been asking about. You have suggested 95L8, 92R8, and 96L8. I'm not the expert, but I don't believe it is any of those (see below). I am assuming you are using stampplating.com. If so, what wizard characteristics are you using? I believe your stamp is relief B and has no inner frame lines, but what else are you using? I don't think you can rule out guide dots because some guide dots are outside the frame lines and your stamp has close margins.

I don't think 95L8 is correct because the left frame line on your stamp is further away from the top left diamond block than in the Chase image. Also, your left frame line does not pinch close to the lattice work across from the chin as in the Chase image.

I don't think 92R8 is correct because (and I might be wrong about this) the left frame line on your stamp is further away form the rosettes as the Chase image. Also the top frame line over the beginning part of the E in POSTAGE seems closer in the Chase image than on your stamp.

I don't think 96L8 is correct because of the spacing between left frame line and top left diamond block.

Thanks, NicholasC! Yes, I use stampplating and I do looked too at the Chase images. So, these errors of position identification are surely because of my eye, I didn't observe well.

The plating wizard criteria I used are: Relief B, No inner lines, no guide dots, plate 8, #11.

By the way, thanks everyone for helping me, my stamp is completely okay. The color got completely back. It's such a nice shade! Do you think it looks like the exposure to peroxide worked well? And which shade of color does it now looks like?

Hi Captain Stamp --

Regarding your stamp wioth the blue grid cancel that you have been trying to plate -- a couple of hints:

-- You are correct that the stamp is a B relief -- and based on the strength of the 4 FL's, is from plate 8.

-- As Nicholas C pointed out -- the lower right corner frame lines are cut so close that you cannot automatically conclude that the stamp does not have a guide dot.

-- On your stamp, the TFL extends a touch beyond its intersection with the RFL -- and additionally, the BFL extends ever so slightly beyond its intersection with the LFL -- and these are useful characteristics for plating purposes.

I plated your stamp this evening -- and can certainly reveal its position if you want me to -- but I think you will gain great experience if you continue the hunt and see what you come up with on your own.

On "no-inner-line" stamps like this where there are no recut varieties or crazy bends in the FL's -- it is basically a "brute force" process of elimination. Knowing that it is a B relief automatically eliminates all of the A and C reliefs on the plate. Things to look at when your are going "brute force" stamp-by-stamp that can help you quickly eliminate possibilities are the white spacing relationships of the FL's to the diamond blocks and the white spacing relationships of the FL's to the rosettes. If any of those white spacings look off (i.e., too wide or too narrow) -- you can quickly eliminate the position and move on to the next. Once you get the hang of it -- it will tend to go pretty quickly. Make a list of potential positions as you go -- and then come back and study each one closer to rule it "in" or "out".

Hopefully this helps.

Give it another go-around and let us know what you come up with.

Regards // ioagoa

Thank you really much, ioagoa! I'll try to plate it again tomorrow. It's a really passionating subject, and my goal is to learn as much as possible about this amazing subject! That was my first time plating, so that would be weird to be right with the position when it's your first time.

I'm a teenager, so I'll still have A LOT of time to learn about it in my life. It's a lifelong learning experience.

I have soaked many of the 1¢ Franklin's without issue. No fugitive inks on those that I've found.

Hello ioagoa.

Tonight, I plated my stamp with the blue grid cancel. I did a list of the position possibilities. Here they were: 42L8, 93L8, 22R8, and 63R8.

That's not 42L8, also because of the LR frame line on the upper stamp isn't extending to the UR frame line of the stamp. If it'd, we would see it on the upper right corner. I also see something else that is not matching with my stamp. The UL corner FL and the LFL intersection is pretty "squarely", and on my stamp, it is more "roundly". I don't know if I explained it well. I probably didn't use the good terms to explain it.

93L8 isn't matching neither. The bottom FL isn't slightly extending at all.

22R8 doesn't match too. It is pretty hard to determine what is the difference that is proving my stamp isn't 22R8, but the bottom right frame line and the RFL intersection is pretty roundly, and mine more squarely. After approximately 2 hours of work, here's my conclusion:

Conclusion: i'm pretty sure it's position 63R8. Am I right?

CS

Thanks stallzer it would be good to get the gunk off some of the used ones and freshen them up

Hello Captain Stamp --

YES -- you are correct -- your stamp with the blue grid cancel is, in fact, position 63R8. Very nicely done!

I recall reading in another one of your SCF postings that you are 13 years old -- and allow me to say that it is so refreshing and encouraging to see someone so young not only getting interested in collecting stamps -- but in wanting to genuinely learn about what you are collecting -- and to go as far as trying your hand at plating one of the classic United Sates issues.

On a side note -- you sure picked a tough stamp to plate for your very first attempt. I say this because the "no inner line" stamps -- and especially those without guide dots or other distinctive varieties of recutting -- can be very challenging -- as all you really have to work with is the relationship of the 4 outer frame lines against the other design elements of the stamp. Alternatively -- on stamps where the inner frame lines were recut -- you have the relationship of the outer FL's against the inner FL's -- and also the end points of the inner lines against the rosettes.

In any event -- you are to be commended for your work on this stamp -- and you should proudly mark the plate position (in very light pencil) on the back of the stamp.

Again -- great plating job on this one!

Regards // ioagoa

PS -- There are 2 additional reference copies of position 63R8 out on the 3c plating database on the StampSmarter website. One of them is super high resolution -- and if you have not looked at it yet -- you should -- as it is a dead on match for your stamp!

Thank you really much ioagoa! Yes, i'll look at the Stampsmarter image. I'll write the plate position of the stamp on a small piece of paper next to my stamp, and put it in my stamp album section I specially keep for the 3c Washington 1851-57 issue. I prefer doing it instead of writing it on the back, though there's no possibility I damage the stamp with a pencil.

Thanks for encouraging me! I REALLY like these stamps and my goal is to build a nice collection of different varieties of it. I recently bought another 3c Washington, which I think is plate 5L. I'll eventually work on knowing the exact position on the stampplating website. Can't wait to see if i'll be right about the position too.

And, again, thank you really much for helping me!

CS

Great job, Captain Stamp!

Note: As it turns out, 63R8 was one of 10 positions I had made a note of after I started including guide dot possible stamps. I had yet to go back and do the elimination game.

Thanks! So, maybe we have a stamp from the same position, nice!

Double transfer position 67L1L

Stalzer -- Nice DT on that 1c blue -- and that "paint red" cancel is very striking -- surely Mobile, Ala. Thanks for showing it! // ioagoa