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This dog of an 11A (93L1L) is another plate-wiped-too-clean printing variety. The significant inking change at Washington's nose level makes this a striking example, as the top of the stamp is somewhat over-inked. The significant under-inking at the bottom of the stamp helped reveal the radial gouges coming from the bottom of the C in the bottom label block that were cut into the master die.   |
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Hi Phillystamper, Welcome to the thread! The unused stamp (10A or 11A) is similar to 88L1L, but it isn't a match. Your stamp has one line recut at the top of the upper-right diamond block, but plate 1L features gouged-out UR diamond blocks, that typically result in heavy inking, as shown here:  Give this one another try. The line at the top of the UR diamond block will help you narrow down the plates, at least, with the use of the U.S. Philatelic Classics Society plating page I linked in the other thread. As an experienced plater, the reference I probably use the most is the set of Smithsonian photographs of Carroll Chase's complete plating of the 3-cent imperforate issue. Each of the 26 photos shows a reconstructed sheet of 100 stamps. I find these photos the quickest way to search for matching guide dots, among other things. I also compressed each "sheet" image to 10 percent vertically for use in matching frame line curves with compressed stamp scans. If you haven't already gotten the photos, they are available for free zip download at the site below: https://www.flickr.com/photos/natio...78765445003/Another source for plating reference images is the Stamp Smarter plating database: https://stampsmarter.org/features/S..._Plates.htmlGary |
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Thanks again Classic Coins, I'll take another stab at it. These resources look very useful. The chase photos especially. |
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ya got me? if I scan it next to one of the other 3 centers could you tell. BTW I'm stumped. So far i've got relief C, #39(connected to the stamp below it in LR corner), the recut in the UR diamond block.I don't see any guide dots. Am I missing something? |
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It would be better to scan it next to your 30R0 #10A.
A C-relief would have a gash on the shoulder. It looks like an A-relief to me, so it wouldn't have a guide dot at the bottom.
Take a look at the Chase image for 80L0. I don't think this is a #39 variety, but I see similar specks of ink below the LR corner of 80L0 on the Chase image. The rest of the features look good for 80L0 too, including the left inner line, which fades out adjacent to Washington's nose.
This stamp looks like it could be slightly oxidized (darkened by exposure to the elements). The lower label block looks lighter than the background above Washington's head.
The ink texture looks typical for orange brown. |
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Bingo. Yes, the lower block is lighter. Think it would be okay to soak in a very very dilute peroxide solution? It doesn't have gum. or is this ink too fragile?  |
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Also notice how the lightly-recut line in the ULT lines up with the left inner line. When comparing compressed images of stamps with recut triangles, the alignment can vary a lot from position to position.
It's safe to soak it in full-strength 3 percent household peroxide. Twenty minutes or so is what I'd recommend. I've done this hundreds of times. Just be sure to soak it in distilled water for about the same amount of time afterward before pressing. |
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Yeah, that 80L0 sure is a lot darker. OBs normally don't darken much, but maybe it was a deeper shade to begin with.
That side-by-side is a nice scan! Do you use an Epson scanner? |
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I'll give it a shot with peroxide then. Should come up a pretty stamp when done. I use an Epson WorkForce 2540 printer scanner combo. I use Apple's Image Capture with it. |
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