Perf Pairs, Blocks And Sheets Value Vs Single Stamp Same Condition

rogdcam,
If you don't like the responses, you don't have to continue to participate in this thread.
I still believe my questions seeking clarifications were valid, although we seem to have lost the original poster somewhere.

Visual Aid

This:


Or this:

John - I will continue to participate, thank you, because I think that the examples being given do not come close to approaching what the OP is talking about. You don't need a Scott number to understand that a $5 block of singles is nothing like a pair of GB "blues" or a pair of "Seahorses" or a block of "Bluenose's". I think that the advice to preserve a multiple no matter what is ridiculous and plain old unrealistic. That is why I am still in this thread.

It is my opinion and is just as valid as all the others. And if you would like to throw an emoji or two at me I will not be upset.

Sorry, I won't satisfy you with emojis. I find them childish and don't use them.

So let's find a low value item to discuss.
In this thread:
https://goscf.com/t/78958
Which discusses this used pair of 319g

You state in the first reply:


My 2017 Scott Specialized lists a complete used booklet pane at $450. Should I be tearing up full booklet panes to get a nice booklet single or pair?

Multiples of inexpensive stamps CAN have significant added value - it depends, doesn't it?

Sorry John but that 319g example makes no sense to me or I am not understanding you. Why would you tear up a $450 booklet pane?

You wanted examples of items with low values as examples, so I picked one which YOU called "negligible value". You provided your own example nicely.

Oh, I guess I see what you are trying to say. That a pair of used singles that are unpriced from a US 319g booklet pane which is valued intact at $450 is the same as an intact multiple of $5 value stamps. Sems like a reach but I will go with it.

Maybe if the OP posts his stamps we can see what it is we are dealing with and hopefully have a good laugh. Or maybe the multiple IS a rarity.

I have come around to your way of thinking John. We need to see the patient.

Stepping back and taking a slightly different approach...

Does it seem fair to say ...
In the marketplace there is a price/value multiplier from singles to pairs, blocks, bigger blocks, etc.
This multiplier differs with era, country, denomination, and other factors.
The multiplier for multiples generally tends to be higher for older material, but there are plenty of exceptions to any linear progression.
As noted before, multiples of classic material are a huge aid in plating.
Moving forward in time, for most U.S. commemoratives since WWII, sheets are readily available for under face, there really is no multiplier, so few will cry over breaking a sheet to obtain a nice single.
To look at another modern U.S. issue, strips of 5 of the early plate number coils sure are a lot better than strips of 3. Those two extra stamps mean a lot on the ends!
Breaking up multiples is not reversible. There are a lot of threads here about classic imperforate multiples being butchered to produce 1 jumbo single for grading purposes.
Each item needs to be weighed on its own merits, with the hope that each owner will be a good custodian of the material while they own it.

Sounds fair John. Would like to see what the OP was talking about.

This emoji is for you:

It was a general question based strictly on $ value. I think the optimal answer here is it depends.

Another question since we are talking about multiples. Example we have a block of 4 stamps. Mint condition and 2 stamps are VF and 2 stamps are Fine. How should the block be described F-VF or VF. I say this because I often see sheets, blocks or pairs etc that are described as VF but there are some stamps inside the said multiples that are F at best.

I hope this makes sense

Does it matter, if you can see the block, and make your own determination, rather than relying on a seller's description? As a buyer, you can see the margins of the stamps within the block and, if you wish to pick out individual stamps, you can determine whether they have the centring you want. Bear in mind that, if buying from, say, the UK, a description of "fine" will generally refer to the condition of the stamp, not the centring.

I fear that you're focusing on side-issues, rather than on the pleasure of stamp-collecting.

As GeoffHa points out, "good," "fine," and "very fine" have a different meaning this side of the pond. I agree with him about centring. However, very few sellers show the back of stamps. What looks good in the picture might not look as appealing from the back. I do prefer clean, unmounted mint. For the early issues, I consider hinged mint, but I prefer the ones that have light hinge remainders. Using Lindner T Blanko to store my stamps, I can see the back without removing stamps from their pockets.

In auction catalogues, these descriptions are mostly used on older stamps. For GB stamps, mounted or unmounted plays a role. If a multiple has hinges, this often is described as unused, hinged, or mounted mint. If the multiple has an unmounted stamp, trustworthy dealers and auctions will describe it as unused (hinged, mounted) and remark that there is an unmounted stamp. In my experience, if a multiple, generally, is of a certain appearance and individual stamps have defects, the same parties describe the general quality and then remark upon the defect.

But when it comes to ebay, HIP, and the likes, you should not be surprised when a seller will consider a heavily hinged stamp "unmounted" or "postfrisch." I, also, see listings that describe stamps without gum as "unused," when it, almost certainly, is a used stamp that the canceller missed. Your own observation appears to be in line with that.

I fear that you're focusing on side-issues, rather than on the pleasure of stamp-collecting.

The pleasure for me is the fine details and knowledge of stamps including all of the intricacies and language of the marketplace. I enjoy the beauty most of all but the amount of accumulating I've been doing needs as much knowledge from experienced collectors like yourselves. I know allot of questions may seem counter intuitive and obvious but I have to ask as even simple questions can generate multiple answers which can easily branch off. I appreciate you all putting up with my daily posts. I hope I can return the favour and help other new collectors in the future.

Cheers