What Is Watermark Fluid?

Unitrade's 'Super Safe' Watermark Fluid still contains trichlorotrifluoroethane, according to the label.

I like Zippo lighter fluid. It contains...Zippo lighter fluid..ha-ha! It's relatively cheap and works great but it doesn't say what's actually in it but does have the words "Highly Flammable" under a picture of a flame sign and another "Harmful" Black "X" in red box sign on the reverse of the can.

Is Freon HFC (trichlorotrifluoroethane) still allowed to be used these days due to ozone depletion? Do you know what CLARITY watermark fluid is made of? Is it ENTRON by Reliance since it's a replacement for trichloroethane?

Lighter fluid (the Ronsonol / Zippo type of stuff, not charcoal briquette lighter fluid which is different) is primarily naphtha. Camping stove fuel is also primarily naphtha, but there are undoubtedly differences between a product that is meant to burn in tiny quantities for 5 seconds at a time and stuff that will burn long enough and strong enough to boil a pot of water. Both products will have additives beyond pure naphtha, ingredients meant to inhibit rust and reduce smoky burning and so on. You can also buy painter's naphtha at Home Depot or similar stores, sold as a thinner / cleaner in the paint section. I prefer actual watermark fluid myself, so I don't use naphtha and I have no idea if there are any practical differences among the options above (other than the fact that only the lighter fluid will come with the little nozzle to easily control the amount of liquid you get out of the bottle).

Ryan

As of 2010 at least, Ronsonol is no longer manufactured. The fluid sold as Ronsonol is actually Zippo lighter fluid. It is even less safe now.

Materials Data Safety Sheet for Ronsonol

Some watermark fluids contain heptane in it but it is flammable.

"Clarity" Watermark Fluid allows collectors to safely inspect watermarks and repairs on stamps. The formulation contains no solvents, no CFC's, no HCFC's and will not affect inks and adhesives on the stamp. The materials are non/flammable, non-toxic, and non-hazardous which makes clarity safe to use at home.";

Clarity is a wonderful product which was developed for APS, but the negative is that because it evaporates so fast, in the long run it is WAY more expensive than Ronsonol. Virtually all professionals, including expert services, use Ronsonol. It is the product of choice, not because it is cheaper than clarity, but because it does not evaporate so quickly, yet affords as good of a result as clarity.

Did you write the award winning article on watermark detection fluids in the late 1990's to early 2000's in the U.S. Specialist of The Bureau Issues Association?

Just a quick question or two on watermark detection: I know that watermarks play an important part in differentiating certain prints & issues (especially US Classics {ww not withstanding}) but I am unsure as to the following: using the Ronsonol/Zippo how much?? and does it effect gum on mint. I have a 'horde' of early used issues which need to be watermarked so I will be practicing n the 'fillers' but need some encouragement to step into the unknown (for me). Also, does watermarking help in determining grilles?

"Did you write the award winning article on watermark detection fluids in the late 1990's to early 2000's in the U.S. Specialist of The Bureau Issues Association?";

If that question is directed to me - No, I did not, but it could have been LARRY Weiss, who is a renowned expert in the Washington/Franklin Issues and has written extensively on related subjects including the discovery of the "Stepping" Double Line U.S. Watermarks and maybe that's the articles you refer to? If not, it also could have been Ken Lawrence who wrote it. I am not sure.

Ronsonol has NO affect on gum, nor does Clarity. Novices often can't understand how it can be safe to dunk/soak/immerse a mint/OG stamp in any watermarking fluid! But I assure you, they are safe so long as you be sure to dry off the liquid/fluid BEFORE you allow the stamp to touch any mount or paper. You remove it from the tray or card you used for immersing it in fluid, then either blow it dry using our breath OR you simply allow it to air dry, which takes longer than blowing it dry. But it is during the drying period hat you can often see some types of faults better. or example, creases will "flash" or "white-up" as the fluid dries enabling you to easily detect creases that maybe can't be detected while it is immersed in fluid (most creases will be evident as dark lines when immersed in fluid, but not very light creases, yet they may flash when drying. Thins may also flash during drying, as may tears or repairs.

50 or so years ago we used carbon tetrachloride for detection. Was fast and easy. Just required a few drops of the solvent app,ied to the back of the stamp and the watermark was very easy to see. Had the added benefit of being completely non flammable. Can no longer easily obtain this carcinogenic solvent however. When I was 8 or 10 years old, I could get a small bottle from any pharmacy for about 50 cents.

I used Carbon Tet as a youngster to dispatch various butterflies and insects so they could be displayed in Riker Mounts. I never knew it could be used to detect watermarks which is a pity since back then I had multiple pint bottles of it. We also rode our bicycles without helmets back then, and somehow managed to survive.

Ah, the good old days. Bought my first packet of 10 Gold Leaf cigarettes at seven. Young boys also happily bought methylated spirits (for fire-starting, not drinking). I seem to have survived.