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khj, I meant no disrespect as you seem to have taken some to that "purist" statement... I apologize if you did khj Sincerely -Jeff
Not to worry, Jeff. No disrespect taken, no apology is necessary whatsoever. Just pointing out that "purist" can apply to a lot of things

. I say enjoy your stamps the way you want to -- just realize that some things may have a ripple affect later on.
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How do you tell that a stamp has been cleaned? I'd like to know if I should document any cleaning I haven't done myself. And to be able to tell whether or not a stamp I might want buy has been cleaned. I wouldn't want to buy or sell uninformed.
Sorry, but there is no easy way to determine if a stamp has been cleaned without physically examining the stamp. In addition, it's nearly impossible to detect a skillfully chemically cleaned stamp with the unaided eye.
I don't think you should be responsible for every little thing done by someone else. Nor do I think it is your responsibility nor necessary to thoroughly examine your stamps. That's what expertizers are for. But, if you happen to notice an alteration, I would note it (it's pretty easy to forget after a few years). Consider a reperfed stamp. Chances are, you aren't the one who reperfed it -- but guess who gets the blame if you sell it without mentioning the reperf?
There are many who do not consider cleaning as altering a stamp. There are many dealers and even auction houses that do it all the time, and they don't necessarily tell you. It always sounds better when we think we are "restoring" the stamp. But the fact is, most cleaning does leave signs. For example, I'm going to erase a light pencil mark off the stamp. I use a nice plastic eraser, and it seems to remove the pencil mark with no obvious damage to the stamp. But actually, you have changed the surface of the stamp slightly. So under the right wavelength of UV light, you can sometimes see a mark where the eraser rubbed the surface -- this is especially true of surface-tagged US stamps, where you will see a loss of taggant because of the eraser. When I see that "elongated" oval/rod, I cannot work backwards and say for sure that something was erased. I'm just pointing out that even the most minor of changes does leave a sign.
Chemical cleaning always leaves some signs -- although a skilled person can do certain things to try to mask it. It's a mistake to think that chemical cleaning is like washing dishes, and that all I'm doing is removing "gunk". A cleaned dish will essentially look like a brand new dish. A cleaned stamp is actually not the same as the original. For example, when you do the H2O2 treatment to try to recover certain pigments that have blackened due to sulfur contamination, you aren't actually removing the sulfur. You are changing the contaminating "blackish" layer into a semi-transparent layer so that the uncontaminated underlying ink can be seen -- hence, the stamp color appears to have been restored. Actually, the sulfur is still there! This is discussed in other threads, so I won't go into those details again.
I cannot go into details regarding how to detect chemically cleaned stamps, because there are several methods used to chemically clean -- and I'd have to talk about how they are cleaned, which I'm not about to do.
If you are serious about it, you simply have to play around a little, to recognize what to look for. But you will recognize it when you see it. I'm sorry, but it's a little hard to describe. I was interested in learning how to detect altered stamps, which ironically meant I had to learn how to alter stamps and also think like a forger. I used have access to several research labs with a lot of optical and spectroscopic equipment. Now I'm no longer in research.
Although easier, you don't necessarily need all that fancy equipment. I can tell you that many basic localized cleanings can be noticed with a filtered UV lamp (magnifier/microscope also helps). There will be a noticeable change in photoluminescence in cleaned areas (sometimes brighter, sometimes darker, depending on cleaning method). But you also have to consider affects of the ink color, paper type..., as these factors can also affect photoluminescence uniformity. You will need a research grade filtered UV lamp -- those itty-bitty philatelic UV lamps will not do. For stamps that were completely immersed in a cleaning solution, you will usually need a reference collection to compare -- especially if the stamp is known to come in different paper varieties. You can't simply say, it fluoresces differently from the other copy of the stamp I have, so it must have been cleaned recently. It really may have been printed on a slightly different type of paper.
The other great modern tool is the scanner and tweaking the image with software -- this is often useful for things such as spotting washed/removed cancels.
Sorry I couldn't give you a more concrete answer.
Bottom line -- enjoy your collection. I didn't mean to get everybody worried.