#1 With 2 Cancels? #28 2 Cancels? #30 With Double Perf?

Hi I was just looking for some opinions on these. Please offer grades and comment. Are there double cancels on #1 and #28, and would they affect the value? This looks like a double perf on the 30, is that normal? Good/bad?

I mentioned in the other thread about the 5c Franklin having both a pen cancel and a hand cancel. The hand cancel is clearly over the pen cancel.

I've seen double perfs before, but the double perfs on the top 5c Jefferson looks "iffy".

In the bottom 5c Jefferson, the top may have been reperfed. The holes are exceptionally clean and the teeth tips flat.

I don't collect classic US anymore and I am far from being an expert. So take those observations with several grains of salt.

There are several knowledgeable US classic collectors on this Forum. I'm hoping they will chime in.

[EDIT: corrected typo in denomination]

The 7 Bar grid cancel on the #1 is typical of a carrier cancel, P.H. guys ?

Interesting. Is there enough double perf premium for a shady person to risk ruining an already valuable #28 in order to sell it as a variety/error?

I've seen stranger things happen. Nothing surprises me anymore. It's not always done for reasons of profit.

Send it in for expertization. I'm not an expert. The reason I felt it was "iffy" is because it appears the vertical distance displacement between the matching holes in the two columns of perforations are inconsistent. Sometimes the left hole is at same level as the right hole, sometimes it is slightly higher/lower. Again, I'm no expert, but in the double perfs that I've seen, the perfs will either perfectly align horizontally, or the vertical displacement between the matching holes will be very consistent. After all, they were suppose to have been made with the same perforating machine.

Normally, I cut/paste the perforations in the scan to do a direct comparison. I can't do a cut/paste test to try to slowly shift one column vertically to try to find a position that matches, because the stamp scan is not oriented to match horizontal/vertical axes. If the double perf is genuine, you should be able to shift the perf up or down to eventually find a perfect match. It is extremely difficult for a forger to make a perfect match.

If you are planning to sell it, that is one stamp you would want to get a certificate.

The #1 is nice but even at a 4 margin. SCV is only 250.00 because of the pen cancel.
The second stamp is a 30a I believe, brown not orange brown, the double perf is nice.. I would get it expertized.
the third stamp is 28 or 28a it has been reperfed on the top. Get it expertized. (you should still send it to me) ;P

In revenues, double perfs were very popular in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. There seem to be far less postage issued double perfed, but assuming it is fake this might well have been done 100 years ago, too. This might have been done to cover a small hole or thin in the stamp as well. Or they might be legitimate.

Horizontal and vertical axis? No problem

Johnny--
On the double perfs, take a closer look at the 4th, 5th, 6th perfs from the bottom and the 3rd from the top. Definitely out of alignment with the rest. May not mean anything-- in 1857, the entire printing/perfing process weren't high quality by any means.

Nice stamps, BTW.... I'm also with Daryl on the 30/30A. Most of the #30's I see for sale are unused. You'd need a cert, definitely, on both the 28 and 30/30A for positive ID.

Hope this helps, Ray

Thanks for the inputs! I do see the difference you are pointing out. I have handled double perfs with Ryukyu 44-53 material, but a lot of them are compound and some of the perfs are very haphazard.

I am fairly sure that it is a 30 as opposed to a 30a. I have the 30a right next to it in the album, big color difference. The 28, I am not sure about...it is redder than the 30 or 30a. I will get a scan of all 3 of them side by side.