Duck Stamps

I have inherited a couple dozen duck stamps from the 1950's and 60's. Some are signed,
some are new,unsigned in crystal mount. Anyone have any ideas about what to do with
them? Do I keep them for the grandkids or try to sell them now?

grendel.......

Duck stamps from the 50' & 60's both mint & used are worth a fair amount and there are folks that actively search for them.

A good place to start looking is Sam Houston Philatelic out of Massachusettes.

Oh, no, wait, they are out of Texas.

Charles

Duck hunting permit stamps are revenue stamps (tax stamps) and are listed with the other types of revenue stamps in the Scott catalogue. They are meant to be affixed to a license and signed by the user. Their catalogue numbers begin with the prefix RW. If you don't have a catalogue we will be glad to quote the current values for you. The oldest duck stamps from the 1930s are somewhat scarce and expensive due to strong demand. The entire series is popular and features artistic designs.

quote:

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Anyone have any ideas about what to do with
them? Do I keep them for the grandkids or try to sell them now?

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This is a complex question and a difficult one to answer. Stamp collections have both monetary value and sentimental value. Are the grandkids stamp collectors?

I know this thread is several years old, but I am a new user and am just now seeing it... I also inherited a collection recently and am plodding my way through the stacks of stamps. I found several of these ducks stamps. Some are signed; all are in excellent condition. Is there a good place to go in order to find the value of these stamps? I have a US/BNA catalog. Are the values in their accurate for these (or any other stamps)? Thanks!

Try:

https://www.stampworld.com/en/stamp...ited-States/

Under "Cat" on the right menu select either "Department of Agriculture Duck Stamps" for the first five stamps or "Department of Interior Duck Stamps" for the remainder.

The Scott Catalog is the definitive source. Scott Catalogs the first duck stamp of 1934 as RW1. The number goes up by one for each year (i.e. 1935 is RW2 and 1936 is RW3 and so on).

Keep in mind that most stamps don't sell at catalog value. You can search ebay by the Scott RW number to see what particular stamps in different conditions are actually selling for.

Hope that helps.

Your library likely has a copy of the Scott prices.

Search ebay 'sold' listings; it is free, fast, and they do not harvest your email address.
Or post images here and folks will give you their opinion on condition and value.
Don
Don

The Sam Houston retail site will give you a good sense of retail value.

http://www.shduck.com/cgi/display2....how_photos=1

Condition matters, consider posting images.
Don

Thanks. This is very helpful information for a beginner. I took picture of three of them. I have 15-20, but this gives you the idea of the condition of each. I am not good enough yet to know how to grade the condition of stamps. What do you think?

It is good that you posted images, several of them are 'plate number singles' (stamp with plate number attached) and these tend to command higher values. If possible, please post an image of the back side of these two (1st and 3rd) stamps. If they are 'never hinged' these stamp have a market value as follows (+-$5.00)
RW26 plate number single $40.00
RW27 plate number single $25.00

Don

Here are the backs of RW26 & RW27. Thanks.

TylerTed,

Like Don says, go to ebay "sold" listings for value. I have all the ducks MNH and know that I didn't pay Scott prices for any of them.

Jack Kelley

Even Scott says it is only a starting point. ex. Scott price of $40 might realize you $20 from a dealer who will sell for $30. Just an example. Nothing carved in stone.

Unless they treat Duck stamps differently, their CV's are considered "retail prices" for something that would be described as VF. Dealers are not likely to pay out 50% of CV, except for very scarce or rare items worth in the hundreds, thousands, or tens of thousands. In that rarefied atmosphere sales are more likely consigned.

For something with a CV of $40 a dealer might offer $5, at most. Put it up for auction on ebay and my rule of thumb is that you will do well to get 1/3 to 2/3, and above 50% only for particularly desirable items. I can set a snipe at 2/3 of CV, walk away and forget about it, and win the auction 90 percent of the time, and usually for less than 50 percent of CV. For a $40 CV, that means a winning bid of $20 or less most of the time. No way a dealer is going to pay #20.

Basil