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I've nearly put myself underwater over the past couple of weeks, but I couldn't resist because of the deals I have been getting. I have yet to receive these items yet, so the pictures are from the auction. I bid on these assuming the catalogue numbers and descriptions were accurate. Other than that, I ignored the old dealer/auction tags (I didn't pay these prices - or anything close to them). Being color-blind, I am unable to accurately identify the colors. I would be grateful if one or more of you could verify the catalogue numbers for me. Thanks! Brian   
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| Edited by Rileysan - 05/07/2014 11:34 am |
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Pillar Of The Community
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The first and third are brownish, so 70a fits. The middle one . . . I would have to guess is Pale Gray Violet (70d) |
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Rileysan, Looks like you picked up some nice stamps! I hope you'll update this thread with scans when you receive the stamps. I'm a color specialist, and I have a color collection of US #70/78, so I'll do my best. Your first stamp almost certainly is a red lilac (#70), but it could be a brown lilac (#70a) depending on the accuracy of the image. The second stamp appears to be gray (#78b). It's not far off from steel blue (#70b), but I don't see enough blue. The pair of stamps appears closest to lilac (#78), but either the image quality is too poor or the stamp color may be faded, so this one is hardest to judge. Here is an image of my #70/78 color set:  |
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Brian.... I viewed those also. Top looks great. Bottom pair is on a NUTMEG card.... Those are they stickers they use. I agree with the color shade....but I do not like the right perfs on the right stamp.... definately reperfed. Look at the back view and compare right to left vertical perfs. |
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Rileysan,
If you're color blind I wouldn't buy any 24c 1861 without a cert or without an extension for a cert. Period. These stamps are notoriously difficult to identify by shade, probably more so than any other classic US stamp with the possible exception of the 3 cent.
Based on the scans that I am seeing, and assuming they're correct... I like the top one as a Red Lilac. The middle stamp, from here, looks like a grey or greyish lilac. The bottom pair could be Brown Lilac or Lilac, I would need to see them in person to tell for sure but I am leaning towards brown lilac.
The 70c and 70d, both of the violets, are printed on a thin, translucent and hard paper. Also, a Violet needs to have a true purple haze to it. A True Violet should look purple (In fact the press called the new 24c stamp Purple back in 1861) and a pale grey violet should look like a cross between a grey and a violet.
That being said, IMHO, the Pale Grey Violets are nothing more than faded violets. Also, a good chunk of so-called and certified 70b stamps are color changelings. As far as certs go, I have seen plenty of 24c 61s with certs that were misidentified but at least having a pse/pf/Weiss cert is a very good way to back yourself up.
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Thank you for the input - all of you! Quote: but I do not like the right perfs on the right stamp....
Kevin, you may be correct. I bid under the assumption they were scissor-cut (possibly when cut from the cover). However, the final price was less than $40 for the pair so I won't be returning them unless I find some sort of major flaw! Bill, your advice is really helpful! I currently do not collect shades of this issue. I was merely looking for upgrades to the two stamps in my album - 70x and 78x - which my Scott Platinum album only has spots for one of each, and none of the color varieties (I am not actually sure my current 70 & 78 are identified correctly anyways). I have been tempted to bid on some of the more expensive varieties in the past, but always chickened out. I know my limitations! Interestingly, the steel blue variety stands out to me - at least I think it does ... Quote: Also, a Violet needs to have a true purple haze to it It all makes sense now - Jimmy Hendrix was a stamp collector! Brian |
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Brian,
Under $40? Sheesh. If you don't need it even with the faults I'll pay ya a profit on it. (I lost my pairs for my plating project in Sandy).
What I think I forgot to mention is that I've seen these misidentified even by the PF and PSE, particularly the lilac/red lilac/brown lilac shades.
I'd say that the first stamp works for the #70 spot and the second one works for the #78 spot. Careful shopping should find you a quite presentable #99 without spending 4 figures (assuming you're wanting to fill that hole) as I've picked up a few nice ones for $4-500.
You're right about steel blue, a true steel blue is a very distinctive shade and a beautiful stamp, the trouble is that for every real steel blue I see I must see 5 that aren't steel blues being sold as steel blues. Basically, people selling $50 stamps (what an oxidized non-70b is worth in otherwise sound and reasonably centered condition) as $900 stamps.
I've been collecting these for over 10 years, they can drive you nuts! |
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Quote: If you don't need it even with the faults I'll pay ya a profit on it. (I lost my pairs for my plating project in Sandy). If I ever get tired of them, I'll keep you in mind :) As for Sandy, my heart goes out to you. How bad were you hit? I find it somewhat ironic that my opening sentence in this thread was about being "underwater"!! Brian |
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Quote: Careful shopping should find you a quite presentable #99 without spending 4 figures (assuming you're wanting to fill that hole One of two in that set I have yet to fill (#99 & 101)! Based on my personal observation of price and availability, I'm beginning to think that the 30c value (#100) is not as scarce as Scott indicates and the 24c value (#99) is much more scarce! I have one more that I purchased, but I didn't pay too much attention to it until now because it was tucked into a larger lot. Can you make a determination on color based on this photo? Thank you! Brian  Keeping in mind I bought this lot expecting that the 24c value was reperfed on the left side, and the 2c coil pair is likely a forgery. I bought the lot specifically for the stamps on the bottom row ... |
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| Edited by Rileysan - 05/07/2014 2:54 pm |
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Out of curiosity; what makes the 2c coil pair a forgery? |
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Member of the Central Oregon Stamp Club. Redmond, OR 97756 Mailer's Postmark Permit #1 APS 239403 |
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Pillar Of The Community
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Quote: Out of curiosity; what makes the 2c coil pair a forgery?
Scott states the following about just about every washington/Franklin coil: Quote: Beware of plentiful fakes in the marketplace ... made by fraudulently perforating imperforate stamps Based on that alone, I pretty much treat all coils from this era guilty until proven innocent. Cat value for imperf pair (#344) is $8.00, coil pair (#393) is $130.00 I see two problems with this pair: 1) The imperf sides are not perfectly parallel to each other. 2) The perf holes seem a little too round for my liking. Brian |
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Pillar Of The Community
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They are not perf 12 (are there private perforations?). Used pair of imperf is worth ~$2, used coil pair is worth ~$200. |
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I should note that I am using a 2010 catalogue in my office. The cat values I quoted are not up-to-date |
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Thanks, Im gonna have to get one of the Scott Cat's. I found a 2008 for 12 bucks, may have to get that. My software catalog doesn't have all the extra notes. |
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Member of the Central Oregon Stamp Club. Redmond, OR 97756 Mailer's Postmark Permit #1 APS 239403 |
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Pillar Of The Community
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And I was using prices based on the Swedish Tiger website which can be rather variable, but the point is made either way. |
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FYI any Scott catalog after I think 2006 is printed in color...if one is in the market for reference. |
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