1c 1851 Plate 1-Early Stamps

Probably because NJS does not have 50 posts and can not try to buy or sell. I guess it is a good rule but I hate to see good people get treated like they don't matter. I have both or your email addresses if one of you want it given out.

I was wondering what happened. I sent him an email. We will probably work out a trade not buy or sell. I think Njs900 has the experience and knowledge about stamps to be exempt from that rule. But............ we will work something out.

Feel free to send him my email.

Here is one that I think is 100L1E.
I have compared it to my copy of 100L1L for comparison.
It seems the left side of the stamp has a weak design at the edge cause by a ruler used to tear the stamp from the sheet.
There seems to be a common, unreported plating mark indicated under the "T" of "CENT".
Will you guys take a look and tell me what you think?

Based upon the shortness of the left-side ornaments, I don't think this stamp has a chance of being plate 1E. I think it is probably plate 2, possibly plate 3.

I do see an interesting angular scratch? coming out of ornament G which might hint at plate 3.

For now, 70L2 is at least very close in appearance to this stamp, and would be a good starting point for comparisons.

Left side ornament completeness or lack thereof is a very important part of figuring out whether a stamp is 1E, 2 or 3. 1E tends to be pretty complete on the left, while 2 and 3 less so.

I should add that while the color and stamp are quite 'washed-out' appearing, the overall color appears to me to match Sep-Oct 1856.

I think the design has too fine of lines to be a plate 2 or 3.
I was thinking the design ended where it looks like it creased for cutting.
I think the design was "removed" at that edge. It has the plate marks of 100L1E. Right side matches my 100L1L. Even to the dot under the "T".

I have to respectfully disagree with you on both counts.

Ornament F, G H completeness -- heck lets just say Orn F to make it simple.

Completeness of F is always a key 'tell' on 1c Ty II stamps. It doesn't look torn away to me, it looks short, like a plate 2 (or 3) stamp. If that is really short, then there is zero chance this is 100L1E. Zero.

Since I see an arcing upward possible crack to the left of it, reminiscent of plate 3, I don't see how that could be there, if the design were torn away at F.

This stamp is as I originally claimed.

Ahhh, I just took he stamp off of my scanner and took a closeup look with my magnifier. I have found the problem but I am not sure how to scan what I see. It appears that the entire left side was damaged. The top layer tore off and left a bottom layer. I can see the lip of the top paper run down the side with the bottom layer slightly longer. I am going to play with my scanner and see if I can get a near edge-on image of some sort.

Here is first try:

Here is another image.
Some kind of paper separation?

A couple of possibilities come to mind, and I'll say at the outset I'm spitballing here.

It could be rebacked.

It might be double paper.

As I said these are pretty much WAGs.

The stamp is 30L2.

I'll post more detail tomorrow when not on my phone.

Your multi-layered stamp is true "plating material" or a "student stamp" as my collection was once characterized by a 1c collector who only bought 4+ margin gem stamps.
Some stamps, only a plater can love.

I think I will trim the left side. It leaves a false impression of weak design on the left that is untrue. Since I use my images for a plating database, the damage is unacceptable.

Thanks again Txstamp. I was sure fooled by the fine lines. The Doporto site does not have a copy of 30L2 and there are not many plating marks for 30L2. It does seem to have the marks in the right margin.

I posted a 30L2 here:
https://goscf.com/t/58151&whichpage=4#547302

Here is a strip I just got in from an auction listed as plate 1 late. The Positions are 79R1E, 89R1E, and 99R1E. They are marked on back as such as received. I do not like that idea for some reason. I will not remove the letters.



Here is an image at top of 99R1E and bottom of 89R1E.
The 89R1E looks solid and the 99R1E looks broken (type IIIa).