Plate Blocks, Hinging, And Breaking Up Souvenir Sheets

Hi all,

Forgive the newbie-sounding post, but I am, well, new to the world of US modern stuff, as I collect worldwide prior to 1940. I know there are a bunch of threads here about plate blocks, including a recent one that I've read with interest, but I have a more specific question on how condition affects resale value and thought I'd start a new thread.

As part of a larger lot purchase, I ended up acquiring roughly $1000 face of US mint postage. Lots of newer issues from the early-mid 90s in blocks of 4, MNH, going all the way back to the late 60s. Some whole sheets, some half sheets, but mostly blocks. (Pics at the end of this post.) Thankfully, the lowest denomination I have in large number is 6¢, and the highest would probably be some of the airmail issues.

A few questions:
- Many of the pre-1990 blocks were hinged into a few Harris plate block albums. As living space is at a premium, I ditched the albums and carefully removed the blocks. From reading through other posts, it seems like it's tough enough to get face value for these mint, let alone hinged - would hinge remnants and/or marks on the stamps affect the value drastically? Moot point if these end up being used for postage.

- Should I consider my 1990s issues (all MNH, thankfully) to be 'plate blocks', even if they technically speaking aren't as they don't have a plate number present?

- Would it be worth just using the larger sheets as postage, too? (Maybe for packages?) It's all MNH so I'd be reluctant to consign it to postage use, but it strikes me that even getting face value on these could take awhile through ebay, etc.

I'm trying to figure out how best to sell/use this stuff as I don't collect it, so getting a better sense of how plate blocks/sheets "work" would be helpful. Obviously I could use it as postage for the rest of my life, but just wanted to see what other options might be out there. Thanks!

I'd say is leave all the sheets and plate blocks intact, and get a copy of a catalogue such as Durland to figure out if you have any more limited plateblocks. Some of the numbers on sheets could be "worth" more. Me personally, I would then scan all of the material using a UV light to see if you have tagging varieties/omits.

The modern blocks of four (without the plate numbers) or singles are fine for postage usage. Don't break up anything with a number on the sheet.

One final thought - I can't make out of whether that bugs bunny has dye cuts (perforations). That is a potential error sheet, and would need a quick view.

The full sheets of modern material tend to go at or above face on ebay if listed as a single sheet and the buyers also pay postage on top of that. This has been happening with the older sheets as well. The sheets started to go at and above face at the start of the pandemic. I will send you an ebay seller's ID so you can see it for yourself.

If you do that, sell the sheets, then you have a reason to use the hinged postage as well as the non plate numbered blocks and other scrap postage. as you get paid for postage and handling, you reclaim money for the stamps used at face.

If you as suggested above, check and find any "good" plates, those to can be listed on ebay pointing out they are "good."

Looks like common 80s and 90s "postage" items. You'll be lucky to get 70% of FV for them if they were perfect after seller expenses if you tried to sell them as large lots. In smaller lots, you may get closer to FV, but it's your time and effort also. I look at the "sold" sheet prices before using mine for packages.

Sadly, if they were like in the last 5 years, there's a good chance of getting more than FV if there were variety.

After going through looking for something good, I'd use the larger blocks and sheets as postage for packages. The singles and small blocks I'd give them away to relatives/charity or if you don't have many, postage. I dump my postage by selling non-stamp items on ebay.

The good thing about those 90s sheets with gum, they can be easily applied to packages. Difficult to use the 80s blocks unless you are shipping large boxes.

Be especially careful with the 1979 John Paul Jones commemorative issue. The perforated 12 version (1789B) is very valuable. The 2021 Scott CV for NH singles is $3,000; a plate block of 10 = $37,500; a ZIP block of 4 is $15,000. A full sheet of 50 would be worth BIG $$.



Singles of the common perf 11x12 (#1789)and the 11x11 (#1789A) versions are only worth 30 cents and 55 cents respectively.

Thanks, all; I'll get a Durland catalogue and take a look. parcelpostguy, appreciate the tip about the ebay seller - think I'll go this route for the modern stuff.

uboatnut, you had me all excited there for a second - sadly, I have the common 11x12 on my hands. But good to know for future reference; I've got a virtually complete (through 1995) Harris US album I still need to go through, and will keep a special eye out for this issue. (To think that a single stamp could pay for my entire haul...!)

Plate blocks must have a plate number.

If I were you, I would keep or use the post 1990 material and sell or use the 1980's material. Surprisingly, even though the 1990's are 22+ years removed from present day, the subject matter, and overall look of the stamps are hardly dated and stand the test of time. By contrast, many of the 1980's stamps look esthetically dated and have subject matters that wouldn't interest the average person today. Quite the difference a decade makes.