When A Plate Block Isn't A Plate Block

I was just looking at a mint block of six of US Scott #623 never hinged complete with the plate number on ebay. In reading the description, the seller was vociferous in stating that this item was not a plate block. Since I've never collected plate blocks, there's obviously something I missed along the way. As I've described this block of six, why wouldn't it be plate block?

Okay, I'm braced for impact. Hit me with the idiot lesson!

Need to see a pic or a link. Otherwise, we can only guess.

Provide a link to the ebay listing and we'll look at it for you. I just checked ebay and there are about 4 or 5 listings for US #623, all of which say "Plate Block" or "Plate No. Block". I don't see anything that is mislabeled.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scott-623-W...em53e97c7446

I believe that the plate block of six requires the plate number to be above the center column (or row, as appropriate) of stamps.

That is correct. It is not a plate block. It is a block of 6 with plate number.

When the plate number is NOT at the corner, they are collected so that there is a "balanced" appearance. Hence, for it to be a plate block, the plate number needs to be in the middle column.

I believe any block with a one or more plate number qualifies as a plate block. That said, a "standard" plate block, they way they are most usually collected is what most people are looking for.

The seller is probably trying to save himself from someone buying and then checking the catalog and finding out it isn't standard.

It's technically a "plate block" if it has the plate number and is a block. Most collectors aim for "Corner plate blocks", specifically matched sets of 4. As someone stated, it is likely that the seller is erring on the side of caution.

As I stated in another thread regarding the definition of "mint", philatelic terms are not always universally used, especially when translating from other countries and even more-so, with specialized collectors who have their own definitions based on minute details.

It is always best to sell with lots of pictures and buy according to what you see and what you are told - not one in isolation.

Again, the above is just my opinion and it is obviously different from others above - leading to the conclusion that terms are not universal. In the end, if the item fits nicely into your collection, buy it. If not, save your money!

I should clarify, my definition refers specifically to Canadian plate blocks and corner blocks. From re-reading the above, I can see that US is defined differently. I digress.

Actually, your definition IS the widely cited standard definition. Not just for Canadian stamps, but also US. You all made a good point regarding the difference between a "plate block" and a "standard plate block".

My perspective is that the printed definition and the actual use are often 2 slightly different beasts. There is an overwhelming expectation that when a dealer says plate block, that it is a "standard plate block" unless otherwise stated. Likewise, with most collectors. The word "standard" is assumed. Any dealer who does otherwise will risk a huge hit on their reputation, even if their claim of "plate block" is technically correct.

I tend to go by the public convention or how it's used in the catalogs. But of course, the result is that definitions will vary among different circles.

Bottom line -- know your seller and how he/she uses terms.

k

I agree with all of the above statements, however, just as a point of reference, how would one view this offering in terms of value? We agree it is not a plate block in the correct configuration, but it is still "technically" a plate block because of the plate number. However, a plate block of 6 would catalog for $250; a NH example $350.

But since the item is not a plate block in the accepted format, we go back to the value of each individual stamp, which as MNH would be $12 each (x6 stamps = $72). But the fact remains that the stamps while retaining MNH status (original gum, etc.) the perforations are severely off center and I would give it a "generous" rating of perhaps VG condition, which reduces the catalog value to $4.75 each (x6 stamps = $28.50).

Although it is recognized the ebay seller has listed it for $37.50, that is a "Buy It Now" price and at auction one could offer considerably less and still "win" it.

I guess what I'm asking is what kind of balance would there be considering a true "plate block" would be valued at a couple of hundred dollars against six (6) MNH examples in VG condition at $28.50? That's quite a spread in value, even with the poor centering.

If the plate number wasn't part of the equation, I would say that many would base the value on a percentage of the VG price of 6 stamps ($28.50). So if one were to say that 30%-35% of catalog would be a fair resale price, then would $9 or $10 be a fair value for the piece? I guess what I'm asking is when you add in the plate number (even in the wrong position) what premium does that place on the specimen?

I'm not at all interested in the piece, I would just like to know if my evaluation is in line with other collectors opinions or if I am completely off in my assessment.

I generally view items like this as each individual stamp plus a small premium percentage because they are a block.

For example, I have a a strip of 3 of Canada 34vi (major re-entries on all 3 stamps). All are hinged. Left stamp has small crease and one slightly missing perf.

Indiv stamp in F-VF = $112.50 (x2) plus one VG @ $37.50 = $262.50 total
Premium of 15% for strip = about $300.

Moral of the story: Very arbitrary!

Again, something is only worth what someone will pay for it. For my stamp, Arpin sells them roughly close to Cat value so I might expect maybe $200 for my strip. I would see what the market is for a single and go by that as that is more telling of current market trends, which technically set the "value" to others.

In the end, if ya like it and the price seems decent, buy it. I rarely regret a stamp purchase if it's something I like and looks nice in the books.

Thanks.

I forgot to add into my summary the premium to be attached to a block of stamps (plate block or not). Also, if I go back to the original ebay listing, the condition is described as NH with "natural gum bends" except for one stamp with "natural gum skips". No picture is offered of the reverse side of the stamps to visualize exactly what is being referred to, so I guess it becomes yet another issue to add into the equation.

I agree that the true value is how much one is willing to pay based on how much one wants the block of stamps for one's own collection.

I think all sellers should provide scans of the reverse, particularly of unused items. I would request this picture prior to bidding, that's for sure!