Kansas Nebraska Overprints..how They Did It !!

I was looking at a book called "How to detect damaged altered and repaired stamps" by Paul W. Schmid. My attention was drawn to the Kansas Nebraska overprints as every tells me how many counterfeits are out there..here what the book says...The overprints were applied using electrotype plates after the stamps were printed.but BEFORE they were gummed. As a result when viewed from the gum side, the overprints never appear impressed into the stamp. So if you really want to know if your Kansas Nebraska overprints are real or not ...take a peek...i hope I don't get taken away for plagarism !!

i have 9 that claim to be Kansas and 7 that say they are from Nebraska, but they are snug in mounts so the experiment will have to be postponed til another time !

Dear Mt Plagiaristic Philatelist....

What about used copies ????? you spelled plagiarism wrong

And Bob's back!

Phil, a dead give away is also the pinhole from the period when they used old typewriters to fake em.

Good ! I WAS going to call him and wish him a Happy Thanksgiving...i am Italian I spell words the way they sound !

contacting local plagrism authorities as we speak to tell them about this from PhilB, if only I knew who he was in real life. Probally my next door neighbor.(just kidding, I call fair use.)

How to Detect Damaged, Altered, and Repaired Stamps is a very good book, there is much to learn in it.

There are two interesting ways to make sure Kans. Nebr. overprints aren't fake that I rarely see discussed. On the back of the stamp, the gum breaks should measure 1.1 mm apart. Also there are the letter spacings of "Kans." and "Nebr". From very left tip of the "K" to the very right tip of the period "." in "Kans.", the overprint should measure 9.2 mm. By the same notion, the tip to tip measurement of "Nebr." should be 9.0 mm. I am breathlessly relieved to say that all stamps in my set met these conditions. These are easy things to check, so I thought I'd contribute this.

Some collectors are concerned about the vertical location of the overprint, but it can vary as much as 22 mm! So this is not normally a concern.

Oh...and Philb...I happen to be on the board of "The Society of Philatelic Information Copying and Detection" (SPICD) and you are under arrest for plagiarism.


-IBFS

I need to learn to read topics from the top down. To my horror, the webpage (which I forgot where it was but now know again) was listed in another topic of Kans. Nebr. overprints. Very embarrassing.

--From the Dept. of Redundancy Dept.


-IBFS

If the overprints were applied before the stamps were gummed, why would there be any variation (from 1.1mm apparently) between genuine and counterfeit copies?

From Hugh Southgate in 1931:
For ordinary stamps a roll of paper about 18.5 inches wide and 24 inches in diameter, long enough to print about 6000 plate sheets, is drawn through the press by the rolls and a tension from the receiving roll at the opposite end of the press.

The paper first is drawn over rolls, which dip in a trough holding water and give the necessary moisture to the paper. It then passes over the curved stamp plates and through the ink drying section to the overprinting electrotype plates and gumming roll and out through the gum drying box, which also dries the overprint, to be coiled at the end of the press into working rolls of about 12 inches in diameter. These rolls are equivalent to about 1500 sheets of 400 subjects. The size of these rolls is limited for handling purposes.

The gum breakers were applied by the perforator and not the rotary press gumming station so that the gum breakers were applied after the gum dried. These gum breakers are from around this period and there were a few different gum breakers from other periods so that finding stamps with the exact same gum breakers is hard to do in this case, especially for forging overprints on.