My Grading Education - Welcome Help!

Whether to get a certificate or graded certificate depends upon a number of factors.

A standard certificate is typically warranted if the stamp is being checked for genuineness, alterations, being manufactured from another stamp, or whether it has faults.

A graded certificate is typically considered for stamps that:
(1) have "good enough" centering, which may be VF80 or better (some may differ on the good enough, and it also depends upon the basic catalog value of the stamp to start with)
(2) have no faults

Regarding these 5 stamps, I agree with the others that think these stamps don't merit a graded certificate.

Scott 29: Faults, appears to have been altered, and centering is not very good, as the perforations cut into the design at bottom and touch at right

Scott 276: Has VF centering, but has a major crease at upper left (and maybe a partial tear), and maybe a small edge tear at bottom, and a heavy cancel. Faults keep this one from being grade-able.

Scott 509: Has F-VF centering, has pencil marking on back, multiple pinpoint inclusions on back, so centering and marking/inclusions keep this one from being considered for a graded certificate.

Scott 629: Has VF centering, small gum skip spots on back, this one needs to have much better centering and no gum skips to be considered for grading, since it's catalog value is low.

Scott 564 (12c Cleveland): Has VF80, possibly VF-XF85, an attached perforation chad(?) at bottom, which may be superficial/removeable, and the mark in the left selvage is not on the stamp (per OP). I believe the condition to be OK for this stamp, but the catalog value is not great enough for either VF or VF-XF to be market worthy to pay for a graded certificate.

My 5c

Great subject Windycity

I don't own any stamps worthy of getting certified as of yet but I love learning about how the certification of a stamp works. You never know I may win the lottery someday.

Dianne

Upon reflection, my last post could be viewed as "snide." I did not write it with that intention. I just want to say that I apologize for any misunderstanding and to also commend everyone that contributes. Every thread is important. I love this community and everyone in it. orstampman, you specifically addressed the original question and did so in a very comprehensive manner, so kudos!

It's difficult for a lot of collectors to discern these tiny differences, as you say. For someone who just wants a nice-looking example and isn't real concerned whether it's VF or XF (or above), it probably isn't all that necessary to be able to note these tiny differences.

One of the main reasons to be aware of grading is so that you don't overpay. If someone is jacking the price sky high, saying it's because the stamp is XF, it's good to be able to look at it and see if it's really VF or below. Also, catalog values are based on VF. Consequently if someone is trying to sell you F or FVF material at around full catalog, it's good to be able to look at that with the realization that you should be getting a significant discount off of catalog prices. If you're not hung up on a certain grade of stamps, there's no reason to worry if you can't quite tell if a stamp is VF/XF, XF, XF/S, etc. Typically the ultra high-grade stuff sells for ultra high prices. If ultra high-grade stuff is your thing, that's certainly fine, just don't pay those high prices for run-of-the mill material.

Aside from the Scott number on the back, it is possible that the 509 is regummed. The gum does not appear to extend all of the way to the ends of the perforation tips. The 12 cent 564 won't grade well because of the large inclusion or spot in the left margin. Finally, the 629 is worth more than face even if it is hinged. However, every stamp dealer has quantities of this and most of the other "two cent reds" from the 1920 period.

Clark