Need Advice For Online Stamp Auctions

Here ar 2 copies from my album for OP for this thread: I thought this may help elucidate the differences in determining grade, especially the 90-100 categories.



stamp 1 is PSE graded; anyone want to guess what PSE graded it at?

I did not buy this stamp individually. It was in a USA large album lot with 100s of stamps, mostly ungraded ones.

stamp 2 is ungraded. It has larger margins. Perhaps nicer stamp but I still think stamp 1 (left) is better centered?

Yep, 5L8. The blur at UL proves it. I thought Ornament R (at lower right) was complete enough to consider it a Va.

Using Egrader:
Stamp on left is XF90, margins equal 13% of the stamp. Wouldn't be surprised if PSE graded it 95.
Stamp on the right egrades to XF91, margins are 17% of the stamp which is higher than normal for this issue.

Harry

Harry,

That is interesting. And yes, stamp on left graded as 90.. Does your software then suggest stamp on right would be 90J?

Rg

The software does not determine if a stamp is jumbo, you the user has to make that call. I know from scanning many issues from this era that 13% to 14% is pretty typical for margin area.
If I where placing this stamp in my album I would make a note that it egraded to 91J - and note the gum/back condition

Harry

I'm perplexed by this EZ grader. I watched tutorial. Science and grading methodology does not seem consistent with Scott, PF, or PSE standards and classification. Basically, if a stamp has 4 margins it will grade fine 70 or better. This EZ grader software will give 4 margin stamps grades way below this. Brutal

EZ "Grader" is a misnomer, it is really EZ "Centering Determiner" since it does not consider the condition of the stamp. Grading is inclusive of a stamp's condition.
Don

It might not sell as well with that name. How about the EZ Centering Determinator?

Don - I certainly understand your point of view, perhaps "EZCentering" would have been a better name. Its still a great tool for me though.

Personally I cannot see the difference between VF to XF and XF to Superb in regards to centering, that's where the software comes into play. Condition issues aren't too hard for me to figure out. Combine the two (centering & condition) and I can make a better educated decision re. a potential stamp purchase, a stamp I own or a stamp I may sell.

Harry

Harry,
I agree, the tool has a good value. For example, it is very good for analyzing US coils since it can really highlight any non-parallel sides. And it certainly help greatly with one aspect of grading. I think that Marios also added support for users to enter in condition variables suck as missing perfs, tears, creases, repairs, etc.
Don

Thanks for all the info, it has been really helpful in evaluating condition and realistic values.
my first auction purchase was this stamp for $85
USA #J5 MINT FINE NG
REPERF AT LEFT SCOTT CATALOG $900.00

im estimating it to be about half or less of the scott value.
any opinions are welcome.
i have looked intensely at realized prices of auctions afterwards and have found some middle ground for pricing but I have also noticed the prices can vary greatly for similar stamps. I guess this is due to how bad the buyer wants it, usually paying more to help complete their series of a certain type or set.

5%-10% of Scott catalogue value is about right.

Are you planning on selling this stamp? You say the stamp is around half or less of catalogue value. The stamp would need to be well centered and MNH(mint never hinged) to be worth that much as was stated in the beginning of the thread.

You have misunderstood the learning lesson here. No reason to think a stamp in this poor condition will ever make you a profit.

This is a hobby. Please get investment $$ out of your thinking.

My intentions are to collect with my son as a small investment for him.
i do not plan on selling this stamp now but rather in the future my son will (40+years from now).
im trying to teach him with what little I know about how to value and buy
and be able to make a small profit when reselling.
i was expecting this stamp to be worth 300 to 450 for a buyer but I guess
i was wrong and spent max worth on it, at least I didnt go in the hole...
so basically I want well centered and NH for premium prices.....
do very old stamps like the early washingtons apply to this principle?
i see these stamps going for rediculous amounts no matter what condition
they are in.

It is difficult to buy individual stamps on the open market and resell them for a profit. For a beginner it is pretty much impossible. A more likely scenario is one where you lose a lot of money and walk away very unhappy. It is better to just enjoy the stamps you collect and hope that you can just get some of your money back.

sweetstamp, a word of caution: I (and I daresay most others on this board) would advise against buying stamps as an investment with the expectation of a substantial return. Buying low and selling high doesn't really apply to this commodity. If you buy low you can be sure that you will sell low (or lower). If you want to sell high you have to buy high in the first place. For collectors much of the profit realized from the monetary investment in stamps is in the enjoyment of the hobby. At the end of the day a 50-cent monetary return on each dollar spent, when measured against years of enjoyment, is regarded as a plus. Who can say that there will be any market at all for these antiquated artifacts in 40 years anyway? Purchase stamps for the enjoyment of the hobby first and foremost. If you have an expectation of selling in the future then buy the best quality you can afford, but do not expect to make a killing.

ETA: sinclair2010's post appeared as I was writing this one. I heartily endorse his position.