Plate Blocks And Organizing For Dummies

OK so I found some plate blocks. And I got an earlier reply from you wonderful people about how they were laid out to print, and some other things... most of which are still pretty much beyond my grasp of things.

What I really need to know is, do I market those with numbers differently from those without? I found a fair number with the color proof side - corner to corner.

I also have a bunch with an odd stamp... 7 instead of 6; 5 instead of 4. Do I take the odd guy off? or sell as is?

My stamp organizational skills are pretty much my own weird logic:
Separate the foreign from the US;
Separate the canceled from the uncanceled;
Separate the glued from the embossed;
Separate the classic from the modern;
Separate Covers from FDC.
Cinderellas and postal cards

Note to self...Try to read the Scott manual before I give away the upside down Jenny? :)

see you already figured it out.

btw..I'll be happy to take any upside down jenny's you come across.

If you are planning on selling them as plate blocks, it might be best to take the odd guy off. The exception to this might be for the most modern stamps where the odd one might have selvage showing which part of the pane the stamp came from (don't know if anyone collects that way).

Plate block collectors are used to seeing in patterns. A plate block of 5 would just be unappealing. Could be the person intended to get an extra stamp from each issue to collect individually for an album of mint US?

When it comes to collecting blocks, my experience is that it is mostly those outside the US who are normally interested in blocks of four of mint stamps. Buyers within the US want plate number blocks. If you have blocks with the ZIP code reminder, there are still collectors for those. There may even be some copyright block collectors (where the selvage says USPS (c) 1998).

If selling on ebay, the most successful tactic I have see and experienced is to sell groups from 10-50 blocks that are more or less within a certain time frame (whether that be plate blocks from a particular year, series of years, or series of decades).

I would not mix block types when selling. As a plate block collector, I have no interest in zip blocks, copyright blocks or plain blocks of four (margin or otherwise).

Blocks of four are probably going to be most popular with topical collectors, and should be arranged accordingly.

Hope that helps.

An additional note for organization. I keep most of my plate blocks in #3 and #4 glassines because they fit. Bigger ones I keep in larger glassines. Since most of them fit within a 3x5 inch dimension, I keep them in index card boxes. They are filed in order of Scott catalog number (which means they are also filed by date pretty much). Each glassine is marked with the appropriate catalog number of the stamp in question. I keep multiples of a particular issue in the same glassine (regardless of plate# and position).

SV... the Jenny is mine! You can have the UN... ok? Maybe a Rev stamp or two.

So... are you saying that plate blocks should also be topical? or by a specific time? or both?

Also. REALLY dummy question. if you have showgard mounts and are displaying a page of MNH stamps... does one / should one eliminate the extra selvage / paper that would go along with a block ... or not? fold it under? It looks kinda tacky to me to have X stamps on a page and one with a tag hanging. But, again, I've been at this for 3 weeks.

It's cool.

What I meant was if you have blocks of four without: A plate#, Zip Code or USPS Copyright, then my guess is that those would be most sale-able as a topical item. So if you have just plain blocks of four (with or without selvage) these might best sell if grouped according to topic.

Plate blocks are not grouped by topic, but are often sold in batches, usually grouped by time period.

Never: unless of course it is part of your own collection
and you decide you don't want it, it is after all your stamps, but remove at your peril.

(even clerk's marks-pencilled information- on selvege should be retained)

Fold it under, and any humidity will have it adhering to the back
of the stamp. a very definite no no.

Humidity here in the desert is an oxymoron;
but, I get the idea.
Don't.

If you are not familiar with the specifics of plate block sizes, then you should ALWAYS refer to the Scott catalog first before removing what may appear to be any additional/excess stamps. Any premium associated with a plate block relies completely on the correct plate block size and ALL selvage intact/unfolded/undamaged.

A correct plate block size for the Alcoholism issue is $10+; the wrong size makes it basically face value.

If you are just sorting for postage, then it won't matter. But if you are planning on selling, then it would be wise to be patient and do some research first.

Bottom line: if you aren't sure, don't break it apart until you are sure. Otherwise, you will only be churning out face value postage to use.

As usual Kim,
sage advice.
You'll be pleased to know that my first rule has become,
if uncertain, Don't. :)

I would like to know if there is a place to go for modern sheet pricing... or if it is just a % on top.

more on plate blocks... most are blocks of 4 some are blocks of 6 or more.
It's best to look each one up in the catalog to determine what scott says is a "plate block"
and remember.. all US stamps are still valid as postage.
I have been known to use extra MNH stamps from the 30's and 40's on envelopes for postage.
I don't know if they are still around, but I have some "Plate Block" books that I store my plate blocks in..
You might also want to look for a mint sheet folder.. basically an inexpensive folder with a bunch of "sheet" size glassines in them. Don't know how much they cost as I haven't bought one since the early 80's.

to add on to what smauggie said..
sell them in lots related to the time period. or the set they are part of.

Normally, in general it is a % relative to face value. For each denomination time period, there are usually a handful of sheets and PBs that have a modest premium (i.e., wholesale buy prices are above face value). If you have extensive holdings of certain denominations (e.g., more than 75% of the issues for that time period), let me know which denominations and I'd be more than happy to make a rough list for that denomination. If I miss the post, feel free to email me a notice.

The little black book on US stamps can be found in many libraries and bookstores. It's the most ridiculously listing I've seen in terms of grossly exaggerated catalog prices.

However, it is compact, illustrated, and easily found/borrowed at libraries/bookstores and is very updated.

In the section on modern stamps, if you look at the most ridiculously high priced of all the ridiculous high prices, that will in fact give you a pretty good idea which stamps have an actual premium. Just remember, ignore the absolute catalog prices they give; just pay attention to the relatively higher values. Actual retail will be a LOT less, but you will at least get a rough idea of which issues.

i carry around a 2011 copy of the Official black book guide to us stamps..
it was it was 8 bucks at the book store. great to help identify a stamp. Kim is right about the prices though. I wish I could sell my collection for the prices they post.

I regularly check out volumes of the Scott catalog (regular and specialized) from the library as well as the USPS Guide to US Stamps. Just got a 2005 copy of the Durland Catalog of Plate Blocks because it was not at the library, but got a very gently used copy for around $10 including shipping/handling.