Rule Of Thumb?

"Rule of thumb" don't send $3500 on a $7000 stamp because my wife will rip off my arms and beat me to death with the soggy ends



naa just joking,I believe that if your willing to pay for a stamp that you need no matter the cost It's worth every penny,I found that the bargains usually have something wrong with them normally undisclosed and most of the time not worth the risk as I've found out lately,so one has to pay a little bit more for the better stamp or at least sellers prices.

I don't think this is a dangerous topic, but maybe this is a dangerous answer.

For reasons already mentioned, I don't think it is possible to say that there is a blanket percentage of Scott value that can be applied to any group of or individual stamp. There are just too many variables (supply, demand/popularity, condition, hinged or not, etc.).

I'll gladly pay Scott value, and occasionally more, for a relatively inexpensive issue that fills out a page. I'll gladly pay a small premium to a dealer if I think it helps keep a storefront operation open.

Also, give some thought to the small guy who has to take the time and make the effort to scan, list, package, etc. a 20 cent issue. Surely that's worth more than a nickle???????

Know your seller, makes a big difference. I never spend lots of pennies the first time on a new seller unless he/she has a well-established reputation (and that I have confirmed that reputation to be reliable). Even then, it will quite a few purchases before I start forking over nickels and dimes.

I interpreted the original post as asking for a general guideline. There will always be lots of exceptions, but I do think there can be some quite reasonable generalizations. If not, then the catalog values themselves could not even be justified as a standard. It is well-known that a non-trivial amount of catalog prices are "percentage" pricing, especially on the modern issues. Almost all dealers, when buying a collection or a large stamp lot, will also make an offer based on % pricing. And of course, there will always be many exceptions where dealers are paying a specific price for a specific stamp.

Readers can adjust their strategies based on the different approaches of different buyers. There is no absolute, even regarding % pricing approach. It has already been noted that some collectors largely disregard the % pricing approach. Then there are collectors such as I, who thrive on % pricing or % face value approach. For a worldwide collector such as myself, I have lots of stamps to choose from. For a specialist (or someone who wants to concentrate in a certain area), the % pricing may not necessarily be practical or reasonable, as mentioned other posts. Those who have bought items from me, know that when I sell items, I often sell them based on my same buying strategy (% catalog or % face value).

I don't think this is a dangerous topic, nor do I believe there are any dangerous answers. It is a good question, and there are great opportunities for many many collectors to discuss their buying habits. I think many of us, including myself, can pick up pointers from the different buying approaches/strategies stated, and adjust our approaches if we see fit. I really don't think there is any right or wrong answer. I think the readers are smart enough to figure out what replies are reasonable for building my collection and what is not.

Yes, This is a better response. I stand corrected!




Much better explanation.

To give an example US Scott R2c(this is a scarce stamp but far from rare). 85% are poorly centered and sell from 85-100% of Scott. A VF copy sells for 100%-120%. A VF with a Playing Card Co. Hand cancel sells for 125%++ depending on Mfg. Any XF examples at auction will go 200% or more(w/o premium for cancel). Cancel also plays a large part in the equation.

Classic Germany up to the end of WW2 is another area that you can throw Scott out the window.

Bottom line I would say if it is more than a few dollars(or what ever limit you set) do your homework and shop around. Personally I keep a spread sheet with my want list, it contains Cat. Value, My fair market buy price range by condition(again do your homework). Below that range look for hidden thins, re-perf., etc. Beyond that buy range I let it walk(I'm in no rush to overpay).

I would definitely agree this would be one of the better approaches to building a solid collection!

However, I still respectfully disagree that there is anything "dangerous" about any of the responding posts. All I see are different and useful opinions.

k