Regummed, Reperfed, How Does It Change Value?

Does regummed increase the value of a stamp or should it be valued as No Gum? How about reperfed? Does that decrease it's value? After all reperfing does alter the original condition. Just looking for comments. Thanks! Wolf-==-

They are both alterations, Regummed should be No gum, reperfed has damaged the stamp.

All catalogs should give values for ungummed (and regummed) 19th century issues. Because of climate and the collectors' practice of using nasty hinges and makeshift hinges, a significant percentage of these stamps have been altered. So, one has to examine every stamp carefully and decide what that stamp is worth.

Everyone has their own opinion and preference, but given a choice between 2 equally appearing classic stamps with the same cost, I would choose the undamaged, professionally regummed stamp over the multiple-hinged one in most cases.

Markets decide of course, but some people apply a basic rule of discounting the value by 50% for every fault. So if the catalog value is $1,000 for mint, then the same stamp regummed is valued at $500, and if it's also reperfed, then it's $250. You should keep hitting it with a 50% cut until all faults are accounted for.

Why would someone regum stamps if the reson is not making more money on them as selling forgery?

It is common to 'practice' on lower value stamps.
Don

I think regumming was done on partially gum stamp to increase their value or else to turn a hinge stamp into a mnh. When you sell a collection to a dealer if he find a stamp that look like regummed you can be sure your collection lose value. He found one and he's not going to check all your stamps. He found one and suspect there is maybe some more. It's not only the stamp he checked that loose value, it's the collection value that can take a big hit. No regummed stamps for me. Never. Daniel

None forcing people to sell their stamps to dealers. Dealers are greedy

The Pope

I'm not selling to collectors when I want to sell a collection. It could be such a drag and I don't have a store on ebay. With the dealer if I have a listing it's take about 10 mn and I get my money. It's fast with no problems. Daniel

timbres
if you do not sell to collectors, who do you sell to ?

René

Not true that a dealer will stop looking when he finds a regum. On unused pre-1920 US collections there will be at least some regummed and/or cleaned stamps most of the time. Sometimes its almost all of them. It certainly affects the value, but it does not make them unsaleable.

I have to disagree ---with everybody . The art of regumming stamps have made big advances. There are a few problems that would need to be answered ....first humidity and plastic holders change the property of gum . Second the art of removing the gum from a low value stamp from the same set and applying it to a high value stamp is a way to move around gum .
The tools like a clay pad or a Dremel Drill with a rat tail bit guarentees no gum in the perforations .

A large collection of various colored Tea's help with color matchs to get the right shade of tint .

There are experts who do thousands of gummings a year and they are very good at their art work .Some don't remove the gum on Heavy Hinge stamps they just microwave the stamp to move the existing gum around .

Nothing like buying a MNH stamp with certificate and 10-15 years later another expert tells you it is a regum ----do you really want to play that game ???

Regumming has been going on as long as stamps have been collected. Whereas I will not shy away from a regummed Classic otherwise sound and with certificate, I do not knowingly buy reperfed stamps or those certified as containing reperforation.

Off the top of my head I can think of several classics in my collection with certificate as regummed, otherwise sound. The age of the certs dispel the notion that old certificates were interested in ID of the stamp only.

Scott 78a unused RG—1973 PFC—would prob grade 90 today
Scott 102—as above—would likely grade 85-90–1966PFC
Scott 60; now TC70–as above but here grade 70-75–1952 PFC
Scott 105–as above—prob grade 80-85–1971 PFC

I only collect used stamps because I don't want to be bothered by re-gumming, MNH versus MH, and all that stuff.

Especially for the classic issues, mint stamps cost a bomb in any case.

As for re-perfed stamps, I think these are no better than damaged. This is especially a problem with classic Victorian issues from the British Empire, where many stamps had wing margins. If the wing margin has been cut off, the stamp can then be re-perfed so it looks like an ordinary stamp without the wing margin -- these are the most dangerous.
And of course there are unscrupulous people who produce fakes of the rarer perf. varieties.

They have done their duty, provided proof that the postal fee has been paid. Or a tax paid in the case of revenue stamps.