Australian KGV Stamps Explained.

King Conn: Lovely line through fourpence on the 4d violet. Gives an extra interest to your background. jubilee's advice to have a lighter background is very good advice. This shows up very well with your extra examples. I very much want to encourage you with this endeavour. It really is an excellent way of presenting a KGV collection. Thanks for sharing such a wonderful idea.

On page 13 I have posted an index for denominational explanations. Possibly will index some more reference information on this page. Have noted under the 1st post on page 1 the index page.

I'll take bottom right

All people from this state are known as "Sandgropers"

phib



I have not listed it yet. Keep changing the *%$# thing. Plan to have it listed next Sunday.

Thanks for your interest.

Conn

I had trouble looking for information & quickly went from one page to another & froze the screen. Have tried to help this problem with some extra indexing of some of the main topics on the bottom of page 13. Hope it helps. KGV

Delving into the Mind of a Forger.

All of the rare lighter shades of KGVs are easily forged but an expert who issues certificates of authenticity can tell the difference. I cannot. I do not handle enough rare shades to have this knowledge.

I believe the darker rare shades are very hard to forge. They would have to remove the print of the stamp totally & reprint but it's possible.Again, the expert would be able to tell.

The constant printing flaws that have ink missing are easily forged & I have done this some time ago to prove my point but under a digital magnifier the white area is cleaner, brighter, whiter than the surrounding white area ~ but it's not fool proof.

The forger would pick on the expensive flaws, like a cracked electro, & with artistic expertise could reproduce the white line of a scratch. A forger could make $30,000 an hour doing this so it would be attractive.

I do not know how you could forge a mint stamp with full gum without reguming, which would be a problem. They cannot remove the ink under a postmark. I believe good looking stamps & perfin "OS" that are highly priced with a variety, would be the main targets of the forger.

A brief explanation of why we need certificates of Authenticity. Something to think about. KGV

Finally, after searching through more bulk lots of KGVs than I care to admit to, I have found a 1d green die II ~ & a mint one at that. Hopefully I have broken the drought. Nice to be able to post it. KGV.

Nice!

Great Find

Hi; KGV Collector, does this qualify for Dot Behind the Ear ?
Conn

King Conn:I cannot see the image so well. Cannot find anything that looks like it. Probably a tin shed; the ear is affected as well, but interesting. KGV

A few more N.W Pacific Island overprint examples. KGV

I hate to see this thread die. Certainly there is more to learn.
In what order do you classify KGV stamps

1. Denomination ?
2. Color ?
3. Perforation or wmk.or ?
4. Perforation or wmk ?
5. Shade ?

You get the idea which comes first the Chicken or the Egg ?

Figuring the Perforations are killing me.

Conn

Excellent question King conn,
I'll have a shot at it, no doubt depends on the individual
but first would come the

1. 1913 engraved no wmk perf 11.
2. typo series (die 1,2 and 3)
1914-1924 single wmk p14
3.1918-1924 large mult wmk p14
4. 1924 no wmk p14
5. 1926-1928 small mult wmk p14
6 1926-1930 small mult wmk p13.5x12.5
7. 1930 surcharges
8 1932 opt OS small mult wmk
9 1931-1936 cofa wmk p13.5x12.5
10 opt OS cofa wmk

I follow the "seven seas" catalogue style order
it makes the most sense to me in a KG5 context.
I began with their simplified listings, and branched out form there.
Hope this makes a little sense to your collection in a broader sense,
to be more definitive would be to suggest an Aust specialist SG catalogue.
Here is the Seven seas simplified list (for assist to perhaps any neophytes viewing):

King Conn:

The cutting edge of what I am doing with K.G.Vs is to sort out penny red shades. After many years & finally with long wave U.V lights I've sorted out the smooth paper shades. I lack rough paper examples at the minute but have a bit of stock that I have not got too. Hopefully I will start this endeavour next July/August. My plan is to take an image of all the U.V image reactions. The camera & lenses will cost about $3, 500 ~ which is a problem but I will overcome. By doing this I hope to establish my credibility as a penny red dealer but until then I'm up to my neck in Australian decimal I have not touched since Dec 2006.