Zeppelin Stamps Options

So I've got the three Classic zeppelin stamps inherited from my father. They had disappeared for a while but just found them. I'm not a collector so I'm thinking I should sell them before they disappear again. What's the best way to proceed? Looks like I can try to get them graded. Does that make sense? If so where should I do that? They all look unused, with a little piece of paper attached by perforations with a number. I think they are Scott number c13-15. I also have a pair of stamps attached without perforations that say army navy with a picture of a gun and are 2 cents each.

Any advice would be much appreciated

Thanks

Perry Mason in The Case of the Disappearing Airships. The numbers will be those of the printing plate. If you show decent front and back scans, and people here will give you a good idea of what they'll fetch without the cost of obtaining a certificate.

And do not remove the numbered tabs (the selvage). Those stamps are called "plate number singles" and are more valuable with those numbered selvages attached.

thanks, here are the images of the stamps. thanks again for any advice.

you have some very nice items. thanks for sharing. as for value I will leave that for more informed people, the scott no's are c13,14 and 15 and the pair is 900a.

Get those Zeps certified and graded - they are beautiful.

Assuming they are all mint and never hinged, the current 2019 Scott catalogue values are:

Thank you. so do I go to pse to get that done? That's what I found for stamp grading. also it looks like some stamps get encapsulated. is that a good thing to do?

Yes, the zeps are worthy of certification/grading and PSE is fine for that. Do not get them encapsulated; just get graded certificates. The 2 cent Army Navy stamp looks like a 900 with some unpunched perfs, not a 900a.

My thinking is that having them certified is something that will cost you time and money. They are what they are and there is not much doubt about that. You will likely find that your net after having them certified might be the same dollar amount that you might realize selling them without going to the trouble. Of course many people have opinions and you certainly should take the time to find out what is best for you. Talk to some reputable dealers and see what they tell you. As you can see from the catalog values they are desirable. The actual grading of them will help establish an idea of the value but my guess is that you won't realize half of those values. Here is a link where you can get more information.
https://siegelauctions.com/ Best of luck

Certification will get you the highest sale price. Certs will confirm the presence or absence of faults, such as thins, re-gumming, or re-perforating. They will also answer the hinged / never hinged question. I also have a set of these - MNH and PSE certified XF90. Here's an example from my collection.



PSE will charge you 5% of catalogue value or $30 - whichever is larger. Grading is optional and there is no added charge for it. Expect it to take 30 working days to get the certificates once they get the stamps.

C13 and C14 will cost $30 each
C15 will be $42.50 (5% of $850)
subtotal = $102.50

priority mail return shipping = $15.90
$1000-2000 insurance = $14.00
overall cost estimate = $132.40
That is 8% of the cat. value (as VF80)

When I submit stamps to PSE, I use Certified Mail, plus they must sign for upon receipt. I have private insurance through APS that covers any shipment I make. I do keep a scan of the stamp(s) and the PSE submission form as proof plus the CM receipt and signature confirmation of delivery. YMMV.

Thank you everyone for the help and advice.

Speaking of certificates, the only stamp I have bought with a certificate (Philatelic Foundation) was a U.S. used #1 in the 1990s from a well known dealer who is at all major shows and advertises heavily. The stamp looked fine, the certificate said it was genuine and there were no other comments on the certificate. When I got home I looked at the back and someone had written #1 on the back in pencil. I know it was my responsibility to look at the back before I bought it but my impression at the time was that a certificate would have highlighted any issues such as writing on the stamp. I know better now that a certificate is not the be all and end all regarding possible issues with a stamp. I have to assume the writing was on the stamp when it was expertized as it would make no sense for a dealer or collector to write on it afterward.

Older certificates did not mention such things. That has changed. In any case certificates should be updated for a few reasons not the least of which is technological advances.

Many older PF certificates do not mention hinged or never hinged.

If you are determined to sell, these are auction favourites along with A1, A2 and all the oldest 90c stamps.