Newbie Needing Some Schooling On The Early 1900's Series And Watermark Identification

I have hundreds and hundreds of used and unused 1908-1919 and am having a hard time with identifying them. The Scott 2026 doesn't help me one bit. I know perfs are different but also match up with other stamp id's. Am I overthinking it? If it is, I would love to know. Also, looking for the safest and easiest way to check for watermarks. I have some unused that I really don't want to mess up. When selling I usually just list it at the lower price but I have some unused that would make a huge difference.

Have you been here?

https://stampsmarter.org/1847usa/1847Home.html

Watermark fluid, including lighter fluid, is safe to use on your mint stamps so long as you handle them with stamp tongs.

I also highly recommend the Guide to U.S. Stamps Regular Issues 1847 - 1934 by Charles Micarelli.

I will have to check that site out. As far as checking the watermark, do you mix the lighter fluid with water and soak the stamp? And does it make the stamp smell?

No, you use the lighter fluid as it is, very carefully, in a well-ventilated area. The fluid completely disappears leaving no odor and no evidence that it was used. It works for both used and mint stamps.

That's great! Thank you. I wasn't checking watermarks because I thought it would leave an odor. I appreciate you guys!

The Washington / Franklin series can be very difficult to find, good luck

"The Washington / Franklin series can be very difficult to find, good luck"


I'm finding that out.#128517;

HW- good luck on your Wash Franks.

I received back in about 1990 in a trade, a cigar box filled to the brim with unchecked 2c Washington Franklins. There were imperfs, flat plates, coils, offsets, perf 12's, 11's and 10's-- the whole range of what was available.

I started out by first reading Martin Armstrong's "Washington-Franklins 1908-1921", so I would understand the differences and why there were so many types and changes.

Then, I tried first to separate as many of the different types into groups as possible with the old eye test. Then, I used a perf gauge and perfed every one of them. Then I watermarked every one of them. There were more than 10,000 of them in the box.

Turns out I did find two of the "rarer" varieties: 2 used #500's. But, I'm convinced that if I didn't do my due diligence first to know a bit about the whole picture, I wouldn't have been successful at all.

So, it appears that you're looking to sell. I would suggest that instead of marking them up as "the lowest value", that you do your homework first and it will help you immensely in trying to identify the individual stamps.

Again, good luck, Ray

Also it helps to read the Johl volume 1, which is online at both stampsmarter.org and the Siegel website. Learning why things were done helps a lot. Easiest if you separate them by perfs first, then by watermark.

What he said!!!

Sort by types, THEN

Perfs (with a perf guage, not a ruler),

then watermark.

then linear measurements.

If they are separated by type, then measurements should not be needed. One would expect to find type III coils in any large accumulation of W/F issues. Since they only come rotary, that should be all one needs to differentiate between flats and rotarys.

Thanks for all the advise. Any secrets for telling which ones are rotary or flats or coils? This may take longer than expected.#128517;