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Replies: 64 / Views: 8,967 |
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Valued Member
129 Posts |
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Revcollector, there may be no need to use a rotary coil, but I'll bet it happens. In fact, I think I'll offer a #493 as a #445 and see how many catch it ... if any.(Of course I will refund if anyone buys it.)
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| Edited by carlberky - 12/17/2015 8:24 pm |
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Bedrock Of The Community
United States
10632 Posts |
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Everything "happens", but you doing it as a test is not the same as someone doing it to scam a buyer. I'm sure it happens, but they are not the real problem. The others are. |
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Pillar Of The Community
United States
2545 Posts |
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I enjoy US coil topics because they give me a chance to bloviate. My opinion: Any seller who offers any of SC 348-356, 385-389, 445-447 without certificates is either un-knowing or fishy: avoid. This includes ebay, face to face sellers, and even the APS Stampstore. However the need to fill spaces appears to be overwhelming to some [they are hard spaces to fill!]. Phony baloney flat place coils are always good sellers on ebay, and the other venues too I assume. They have been good sellers for a hundred years from the look of most old US collections offered. Actually, the best way to get reference copies and surely genuine examples is to go for the recognized precancels on these issues like the ones below.  |
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Pillar Of The Community
United States
1414 Posts |
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Rather than learning coil identification by rote, start with the business problem. The Bureau was faced with production bottlenecks, quality issues and increasing demand for stamps. . Changes in watermark, perforations and ultimately the development of the rotary press all related to the need to print larger quantities of better stamps at a lower cost. Coils were developed in response to a desire to support high speed affixing machines and stamp vending machines. Initially coils had to be cut up from sheets of stamps perforated in one direction. Imperforate coils were also made available. Because stamp collectors did not take coils seriously until the changeover to perf 8 1/2, few were saved. Substantial quantities of coils with fake perforations were sold to dealers (and collectors) even before World War II. Until Kiusalas produced the US Specialty Gauge in the late 1960s, fake perforations were generally not exactly the same gauge as genuine perforations. If imperforate coils were not available, like for the 4 and 5 cent horizontal coils, edges had to be cut by hand and were rarely parallel enough to be credible. As production processes changed, the characteristics of the coil edges changed. (The Micarelli Guide lists stamps that can be altered to resemble a coil or scarce perforation variety.) With very limited exceptions, genuine coil edges must be parallel. When comparing edges, the same stamp should be compared top to bottom. (When comparing perforations, a different stamp should be used.) Clark  |
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| Edited by cfrphoto - 12/18/2015 01:17 am |
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Moderator

United States
12330 Posts |
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I would add another cautionary note to this thread... Be extremely careful of 1¢ Washington perf 8½ coils. These are faked by adding perforations to the common imperforate 1¢ stamp (Scott 408) since the cost of certification usually outweighs the value of the stamp! Don |
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Valued Member
129 Posts |
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Just listed a #493 as a #445, with only a front picture and asking $190. Will post the results in 30 days. |
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Moderator

United States
12330 Posts |
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Carl, Your listing has images of front and back. What are you looking to achieve with this listing? Don  |
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Valued Member
129 Posts |
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I did remove the back scan. I'm trying to prove that a stamp doesn't necessarily have to be altered to be a "fake". |
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Pillar Of The Community
1515 Posts |
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So you're listing a stamp that you believe to be fake without saying so in the description? This is probably against ebay's policy no matter what you're trying to prove. |
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Pillar Of The Community
United States
1414 Posts |
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Collectors serious about buying genuine US flat plate coils or wanting to distinguish between the good and the bad, must have the proper tools and good references. Known fakes are sometimes useful references but will be no help when compared to a genuine coil. It will not be possible to determine if a coil is likely to be genuine unless the determining characteristics can be clearly seen. My first recommendation is to buy some coil singles or pairs with recent certificates. At a minimum, make it a priority to obtain a certified example with a double line watermark. Examples of genuine used perf 8½ and perf 10 coil examples with some perforation damage from affixing machines are inexpensive and plentiful. Additional certified examples will always be useful. Expensive coils should come with certificates or should be sent in for one immediately after discovery or purchase. Sometimes collectors or dealers become overzealous when weeding out fakes. I once found a genuine used 354 line pair in a pile of rejected coils. Aside from having a minimum 1200 DPI scanner, having a good magnifier is really important, especially at stamp shows. I am amazed at how few collectors carry anything more than a 3 or 5 power magnifier. While they have their uses, checking coils is not one of them. Most expertizers have a Peak 10x loupe with a measuring reticule. While measuring coil height is a stretch, it easily measures stamp margins and overprints. I also carry and use a 15x swing loupe for checking perforations, coil edge characteristics and paper defects. As a footnote, if I find that a seller is making identification errors, I assume the worst about condition and bid accordingly - low. Clark    |
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| Edited by cfrphoto - 12/19/2015 11:13 am |
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Valued Member
129 Posts |
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Jenny2U "So you're listing a stamp that you believe to be fake without saying so in the description?" Now, there won't be much point in "saying so" ... and from what I've heard, my 7 day (revised) listing would expire before ebay would getting around to me ... or even bother. |
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Pillar Of The Community
1515 Posts |
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Great. So if you get a buyer, are you going to explain "I was trying to reel in a sucker/dummy and guess what you're it?" ebay is enough of a minefield with buyers dodging real fraudsters, why plant a fake to prove some sort of point here? If you want to educate buyers, write an ebay guide. Don't play tricks on buyers - they don't like it. Perhaps you need a refresher of ebay's stamp guidelines: Quote: Listings for stamps must follow these guidelines: Include all relevant information that you know about the item, such as origin, date of issue, and condition. Include clear pictures of the actual item being sold. Stock photos and images that are dark, out of focus, edited, or misleading aren't allowed. All flaws or alterations to the item being sold that can't be seen in the pictures must be specified in the description of the listing. Include all information about any alterations that may have been made to the item. Individually identify every item listed to avoid misunderstandings about what is for sale. Don't make false or misleading claims of sales scarcity, value, condition or investment potential. |
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| Edited by Jenny2U - 12/19/2015 2:26 pm |
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Pillar Of The Community
6330 Posts |
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Valued Member
129 Posts |
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John Becker, here's our chance for another test.
Report me.
Jenny, the stamp is misidentified, not altered. |
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| Edited by carlberky - 12/19/2015 2:36 pm |
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Pillar Of The Community
6330 Posts |
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Carl, This does not reflect on ebay, but on your lack of character. So many members of this Community invest countless hour to try to improve ebay lot accurary, etc. The hobby deserves better than your ilk. |
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Replies: 64 / Views: 8,967 |
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